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Alison Cook, my counterpoint at the Chronicle, describes people who like the iodine-like flavor of Gulf brown shrimp as “a perverse subset” of humanity. As the self-appointed spokesman for this perverse subset, I interviewed Jim Gossen, president and CEO of Louisiana Foods Global Seafood Source, one of the largest shrimp dealers in Houston.

Robb Walsh: Brown shrimp have more iodine flavor than white shrimp--so which is more popular in Texas?

Jim Gossen: Brown shrimp are more prominent in Texas and white shrimp are preferred in Louisiana and on the Eastern Seaboard. A large brown shrimp has a stronger iodine flavor than a small brown shrimp. Brown shrimp in the Gulf of Mexico feed on iodine-rich kelp, which gives it the rich iodine flavor. Wild shrimp feed on crustaceans and seaweed and swim freely which gives it a richer firmer taste than farm-raised shrimp. White shrimp is the dominant shrimp sold in the United States. I think that whichever shrimp people grew up eating is what they judge their taste for shrimp by.

RW: How much brown shrimp is sold in Texas?

I like the iodine flavor of Gulf brown shrimp, especially in gumbos and other highly seasoned dishes. Alison Cook, the restaurant critic at the Chronicle, hates the taste of iodine in seafood. And she is trashing the local shrimp.

In an October 7 post on her Cook’s Tour blog titled “Dateline Charleston S.C.: hardly a bad shrimp to be had” Cook wrote:

“I have to think that this is shrimp heaven. I wonder what makes the Carolina shrimp different from our Gulf varieties, which can disappoint as often as they please…”

Yo, Sharon! You wanted to know where to go for fresh fish, cheap shrimp and shucked oysters.

Thing to do is take a drive down to Kemah. But before you go over the bridge, turn off into Seabrook and find Waterfront Drive, where the shrimp boats dock. There are at least half a dozen fish markets there. The prices down there are great--but be careful! This isn't Central Market.

You have to look over the shrimp carefully to make sure there aren't giving you any that are turning black. And I heard the bags of live crawfish aren't very good--they contain a lot of crushed ones. -- Robb Walsh