Photo by David Marcel

Ramp and spring pea soup.

From the mailbag, a reader request for ramps:

Ramps, which are basically wild leeks, are widely available in other parts of the country in the spring. Where can Houstonians find lovely spring vegetables like ramps, fiddleheads, etc? Tried Trader Joe's, no luck. Houston needs our ramps!

Sorry to say, but ramps are pretty hard to find in Houston to begin with -- especially this late in the season. Calls to Revival Market, Whole Foods and Central Market all netted the same response: No ramps. Maybe next year.

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Texans love their homegrown restaurants and grocery stores, and the affinity that people feel for San Antonio-based H-E-B is easily matched (if not surpassed) by the cult of Whataburger. The best thing to come out of Corpus Christi aside from Selena (a.k.a. the Mexican Madonna), Whataburger inspires the sort of passion in Texans that In-n-Out evokes in those silly, silly Californians.

It's only natural, then, that two such beloved food purveyors would come together on a project guaranteed to endear both to fast food-loving Texans for all eternity.

It was announced a few weeks back that Whataburger would soon be selling its Fancy Ketchup, Spicy Ketchup and Original Mustard in H-E-B stores across the state. To anyone unfamiliar with the burger chain's condiments, let's just say they're pretty popular.

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When HB 1139 -- also known as the Bake Sale Bill -- was signed into law in June 2011 by Governor Rick Perry, it set a precedent in Texas for so-called Cottage Food Bills that allow small, independent bakers and other culinary artisans to make and sell food from their homes.

Former Houston Press food critic Robb Walsh profiled the "pirate bakers," canners and tamale-makers who fought to have greater freedoms in selling their goods in his feature "Come and Bake It" in February 2011 -- just a few short months before the bill was finally passed.

"Bake sales and homemade tamales are only two of a long list of beloved Texas food traditions that health authorities are stamping out," Walsh wrote of the dark days before the State of Texas saw the light.

"Your tax dollars are also helping eradicate the dewberry jam, mayhaw and muscadine jellies, and other preserves that were once sold at farm stands," Walsh continued. "To the disappointment of many budding local food entrepreneurs, homemade food products may not be sold at farmers' markets either."

Not only has that changed, now the state is allowing even more goods to be brought to farmers markets -- and it should be easier now, too.

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Courtesy of rosebengal

Cupcakes are on their way out, so what other treats are in?

Cupcakes have been the rage in America for several years now. After stores were opened exclusively to sell cupcakes, television shows were centered on the little individual desserts and the public went crazy over different cupcake presentations and decorations, it seemed as if cupcakes were the end-all-be-all desserts.

However, after recent results showing that Crumbs Bake Shop's stock has fallen by 22 percent. What once was being sold for more than $13 a share, is now going for a measly $1.30. In addition, Sprinkles has delayed its much-ballyhooed cupcake ATM.

The cupcake industry just isn't what it was a few years ago, when everyone and his mother wanted to get a cupcake -- cupcakes are elegant and have interesting designs and sweet flavors. Personally, I have always loved cupcakes; they're like your own personal cakes. But there's the problem. Everyone knows how to make them, causing the public's demand to diminish for something so homemade and simple to put together, as noted in a Wall Street Journal article about the crash of the cupcake market. Why would you pay nearly $4 for one when you can make a dozen or two at home for less than that?

One of the biggest draws with cupcakes, however, was the fact that they're little; they are easy to package to go or to eat in a shop. Their size makes them the perfect treat for individuals. But there are also other small treats we should keep our eyes out for -- they could be the next big, or little, things.

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Photos by Katharine Shilcutt

I should like to show you the food of my people.

One of my favorite springtime rituals is finding purple hull peas at Canino's -- the massive farmers' market complex on Airline at Loop 610 -- and picking up the ingredients for a good, old-fashioned East Texas supper.

Canino's has those peas in right now for a very reasonable price: $5.99 for one and a half pounds. Purple hull peas are not to be confused with other cowpeas such as black-eyed peas or lady cream peas or crowder peas, although they can all be cooked up very simply in the same exact way: boiled down with some salt pork and onions.

Black-eyed peas are beige with a dark-brown "eye," while lady cream peas are light green with no colored eye to speak of. By comparison, purple hull peas are noted for their vibrant green color and vaguely purple "eye," which will turn your salt pork purple as the peas cook.

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Whether it's for legal purposes, local recognition or because pancakes are just damn tasty-sounding, check out these brands that may have a different name depending on where you find them:

Do you recognize this mayo?

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Photos courtesy of Google Maps

Few tears will be shed over the demolition of the Tanglewood Court apartments.

In 2010, Montrose residents were upset to find out that the languishing Wilshire Village apartment complex, built in the 1940s, were scheduled for demolition after Texas grocery giant H-E-B purchased the large parcel of land at Dunlavy and West Alabama.

Later that year, West University residents were upset to find out that the new H-E-B planned for Buffalo Speedway wouldn't include room for the beloved Buffalo Grill which had occupied its spot at the corner of Bissonnet for 26 years. The diner was forced to move to a new location a few blocks away on Weslayan.

Now, the grocer has announced plans to construct a new store at the corner of San Felipe and Fountain View, a site currently occupied by the sprawling Tanglewood Court apartment complex. But unlike these previous situations, no one seems particularly sad to see the Galleria-area apartments go.

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Photos by Katharine Shilcutt

Chef Randy Evans chats with Animal Farm vendors at the City Hall farmers market.

Arriving just in time for some seriously pleasant weather and National Strawberry Day, the 2013 season of the City Hall Farmers Market is kicking off today downtown. This marks the fourth year that the market has been operating in front of City Hall on Wednesdays from 11 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.

For opening day, chef Randy Evans of Haven and Cove will help celebrate National Strawberry Day by demonstrating his strawberry vinaigrette tossed with arugula, candied pecans and pink peppercorn goat cheese, and handing out samples to market-goers. Additionally, look for strawberries -- and blueberries -- from new vendor The Berry Best, a berry farm located in Silsbee.

Other new faces among the 30 to 40 vendors that line both sides of the City Hall reflecting pool include Java Pura Coffee Roasters, offering locally roasted coffee with a full coffee bar if you need a caffeine kick, and the Fraiche food truck, specializing in meals made with local produce and other ingredients.

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Photo by frank3.0

The tiny, peckish crawfish I ate over the weekend at The Hideaway on Dunvale -- my preferred spot for crawfish -- would seem to indicate that although crawfish are available in Houston, crawfish season has not yet truly arrived.

This is a point of contention every year among crawfish lovers, who clamor for the bugs earlier and earlier each season. Spring arriving early in Houston hasn't helped matters, as the first gloriously warm and sunny days after winter are usually an indication that it's time to cake your face in crawfish guts.

"The season used to run from the end of February and it would go into June," says Jim Gossen, owner of Louisiana Foods and the man primarily responsible for introducing crawfish to Houston starting in the 1980s. Crawfish season changes from year to year, and is dependent primarily on water levels in Louisiana's Atchafalaya River Basin. The state accounts for between 90 and 95 percent of the annual U.S. crawfish production, where rice fields and crawfish farms typically operate as one.

"Now," says Gossen, "they start in November in the rice fields and run until they start planting again for rice." The reason? Demand, which has only increased since the 1980s and shows no signs of slowing down.

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Photos by Christina Uticone

Peek-a-boo! I eat you.

Given my affinity for Revival Market and their breakfast specials -- Kolache Saturday, anyone? -- I was surprised last week when I received their newsletter announcing "Donut Mania." The newsletter mentioned that their donuts are "easily the most popular breakfast" they have served; where the hell was I? It's possible I saw it and dismissed it (donuts are not my favorite, after years working at Dunkin' in college), but maybe I was traveling and missed it entirely. Either way, my husband sent me an e-mail that read:

Revival. Donuts. Saturday.

So I knew we were going. He doesn't even e-mail me back when I ask him what he wants for dinner, or to remind him to pick up the dog's prescriptions. But donuts are obviously Very Important Stuff.

The donut menu ($7.95 half-dozen assortments, pre-boxed):
• Black Strap Rum Eggnog Cream-filled
• Smoked Piloncillo Glazed
• Heights Meyer Lemon & Sour Cream
• Brown Sugar & Christmas Spice
• Valhrona Chocolate & Malted Milk
• Apple Pecan Fritters

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