The "Spicy, Smoky, Sticky Ribs" exceeded its promises. The Berkshire ribs, coated in a sauce with smoked Morita chiles, rice wine vinegar and piloncillo sugar, were perfectly tender. The heat from the chiles grew but never became unbearable, and the sauce had a deep, bittersweet character reminiscent of black mole. It's rare that a light sprinkle of sesame seeds makes a big difference, but in this dish, they added visual interest and texture.
Photos by Troy Fields The "Spicy, Smoky, Sticky Ribs" were a near perfect mix of tenderness and heat.
We were at El Big Bad on Travis, the surviving sister restaurant of El Gran Malo, the irreverent luchador- and wolf-themed hangout on Ella that closed its doors (in no small part due to complex City of Houston permitting issues relating to the patio and parking). If you're looking for a place with haute cuisine, you're howling up the wrong tree here. El Big Bad serves a wealth of fun appetizers and excels at hearty, comforting entrées. There's room for improvement: A few dishes need work, and they seem to be rationing tortillas.
Yet there are standouts to be had -- among them a hearty pozole and an ever-changing ceviche that's always made with market-fresh ingredients. It's a funky, endearing locale, a good place to hang out with friends, nosh on homestyle, Mexican-inspired food and drink crazy infused tequilas. It would be tough to find a more fun environment in which to eat in Houston.More »