Breakfast Tacos at Tierra Caliente

Not prepared for the additional set of choices, I stepped aside while others ordered, torn between chorizo and barbacoa. I contemplated barbacoa (not on the breakfast menu) and eggs, but was beaten to the punch by the guy in line ahead of me, whose request was summarily denied. Apparently, Tierra Caliente is McDonald's-like in its refusal to accomodate brunchier cravings.

Chorizo was a given. Chorizo is my personal bacon. When given the choice to have chorizo, this is a trick question, because chorizo is always the answer. A trio of potato and egg tacos joined the order, mostly because I was flustered by the new options, and not able to process all of the information when it came time to order.

Back at home, I figured out that the best way to get my late-sleeping wife out of bed quickly is to announce the arrival of tacos. I'd planned to get her moving, artfully arrange and photograph the tacos, and be ready when she was, a good 15 minutes later. She was at the table, looking expectant, by the time I had them unwrapped. As I set up for the shoot, she began asking for tacos. While I adjusted lighting, she grumbled. Best alarm clock ever.

Typical of Tierra Caliente, the tacos are on the diminutive side. A trio each was about right for a light-ish breakfast. Handmade tortillas, already starting to stiffen slightly from their lardy construction, folded around a chorizo and egg stuffing with a pleasantly fatty ratio of sausage to egg. The chorizo was balanced between pork fat and dusky spice, rounded out by a nice lactic tang.

The curds of the eggs matched the pebbly nature of the chorizo, making for a slightly crumbly affair, with just enough moisture and slick orange grease to hold together and offer decent drippage, my preferred chorizo con huevos texture. Your mileage, of course, may vary.

The papas con huevos were, well, papas con huevos. Filled with scrambled eggs and fairly bland, soft potatoes, I wouldn't bother with them again unless one of my kids wanted one. Slathered in creamy and electric green or slightly earthy red salsa, the whole is far greater than the sum of its parts, better than most breakfast tacos around, yet definitively inferior to its chorizo-stuffed cousin.

What makes or breaks a breakfast taco, more often than not, is the quality of the tortilla. Here, I have a bit of a quandary. The tortillas are obviously homemade, with a nicely fluffy texture and decent browning from their turn on the griddle. They are, however, just a hair too thick for the diminutive size of the tacos. In the grand scheme of quibbles, this is a small one. The tortillas are delicious, so it feels a bit off to complain about them, but they do throw off the overall balance of the tacos, if only just. Rolled 1/16th of an inch thinner, and perhaps a bit larger in diameter (so as to hold a bit more chorizo), and these buck-a-piece beauties would be at the top of my list.

As it is, I'll stick with the lunch offerings as my default here, though the promise of very good breakfast tacos within a few minutes of my door will certainly give me more reason to shed my apathy. Case in point: Two days after those breakfast tacos, I found myself in need of a quick bite between a drive out to the country and an event at my kids' school. I went to Tierra Caliente for the breakfast tacos, that time, but wound up with barbacoa. Proximity to tacos can be both cause and cure, it seems.


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5 comments
Bruce_Are
Bruce_Are topcommenter

You need to find a place that makes corn tortillas, like Taqueria La Favorita or Taqueria La Catarina. Corn tortillas taste better (in my opinion) and are healthier.

Vivacia
Vivacia

Puts the fancy-pants food trucks to shame

nhallfreelance
nhallfreelance

I'm bi-partisan when it comes to tortillas, and love both flour and corn. Generally, I prefer a pillowy flour tortilla for breakfast tacos, and the more austere corn for tacos sans egg.

Thanks for the recommendations, though. I'll check those out.

nhallfreelance
nhallfreelance

Apples/Oranges, but I tend to agree that a really well made taco trumps most other food I've had off of trucks, fancy or not.

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