Finally! Killen's Barbecue to Open Tomorrow

Photo by Mai Pham
This is "moist" brisket at Killen's Barbecue.

It was a beautiful thing to watch: Ronnie Killen, unwrapping a huge slab of hot-from-the-oven brisket, then lightly shaking it to gauge the consistency of the meat. Moist heat curled upwards as the wrapper was peeled back, and the black-crusted meat jiggled as if it were a big block of Jell-O.

I knew even before he cut into it that it would be exceedingly moist and tender -- it was the jiggle that gave it away. And sure enough, each slice of brisket revealed itself to be oozing with juiciness. In fact, the sight had me in near-convulsions of food ecstasy. If there was ever a definition for "food porn," the food at Killen's Barbecue is it.

And good news for those of you who have never had the pleasure of putting some of that meat in your mouth: Killen's Barbecue is opening in Pearland tomorrow, Saturday, February 22! The build-out is complete. The chairs and the tables have arrived and are in place.

I can tell you without hesitation that it's worth the drive. Killen's is craft barbecue at its absolute best (I say this with utter conviction) -- and it's going to put Pearland -- and with it, Houston -- on the map as one of the nation's top barbecue destinations.

Photo by Mai Pham
The ribs are beautifully crusted with this crisp sear.

At the pop-up meal I had recently, it wasn't just the brisket, either. The large slabs of Flintstone-size beef short ribs were just as awe-inspiring. Cooked in slabs of four, each single cut of rib weighed in at about a pound and a half to two pounds. It was a meat-lover's dream and a foodie's best fantasy.

I watched eager diners come up to the counter, ordering several pounds of everything before walking away -- huge tray of barbecue in hand -- with the kind of glee that goes with winning the lottery. It brought to mind a conversation that I had with Killen last summer, when I visited his barbecue pop-up for the first time.

This story continues on the next page.

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I really enjoyed the beed ribs. The brisket was very good but with the high fat content of the Prime brisket I might opt for the "lean" brisket next time.


Great pics, Mai. This is as good as it gets for you, your ecstasy, your moment of rapture.



She got as moist as the cue writing this piece, sign of a passionate food writer.

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