Margarita Afternoon: Goro & Gun Crafts a Masterpiece
Tulu makes an unforgettable margarita.
With such a compelling cocktail list, I felt dumb ordering a margarita, and asked Matthew "Tulu" Whiteside for some help. Tulu recommended the house margarita, and when he started pulling several bottles from the high shelves behind him, I knew it was going to be something less "house" than I'm used to.
The margarita at Goro & Gun is intricate, with a blend of Espolon Blanco and Siembra Azul Reposado tequilas. Rather than Cointreau, it uses the new trend in triple secs -- Pierre Ferrand Dry Curaçao. Technically, the Pierre Ferrand is not a curaçao, as they are originally made with distilled spirits as a base. Pierre Ferrand Dry Curaçao is made with a Cognac base, much like Grand Marnier, but according to Tulu, it has a much zestier taste than other cognac-based orange liqueurs.
With the addition of fresh lime juice and turbinado simple syrup, this margarita has a deep and complex taste. Whereas simpler margaritas are either sweet or tart, the Goro & Gun margarita manages to be sweet and tart at the same time. The rich tequila, orange, and Cognac flavors make the margarita more like a light liqueur to be sipped and savored, rather than the simple drink that one gulps with chips and salsa and enchiladas. At $11.00, it's around the same price as a premium margarita at Tex-Mex joint.
There's no chips and salsa here, but I love the atmosphere of Goro & Gun. As Tulu explained, the layout of the tall shelves makes it seem like a library, with fascinating spirits rather than books. But except for mid-afternoons, don't expect a quiet library, as Goro & Gun is an integral part of the newest entertainment district shaping up in Houston.