100 Favorite Dishes 2013: No. 62, Korean Spiced Brisket Plate at Revival Market

Photo by Kaitlin Steinberg
Turn it into a cabbage roll for maximum deliciousness.
This year, leading up to our annual Menu of Menus issue, Kaitlin Steinberg counts down her 100 favorite dishes as she eats her way through Houston. She'll compile a collection of the dishes she thinks are the most awesome, most creative and, of course, most delicious in town. It's a list of personal favorites, things she thinks any visitor or Houstonian ought to try at least once and dishes that seem particularly indicative of the ever-changing Houston foodscape. It's a list to drool over.

The first thing I thought upon taking a bite of Revival Market's Korean spiced brisket for the first time was profane, so I'm not going to write it.

The second thing I thought was, "I'm going to need a pound of that brisket." Followed by, "Is it okay to eat nothing but brisket for a few days?" Followed by, "Yes."

Revival Market is, of course, known for its meats, particularly local, house-cured ones. So when I saw that they have a lunch plate featuring two of my favorite things -- brisket and kimchi -- I knew I'd love it before I even tasted it.

Photo courtesy Revival Market
Brisket and Korean spices all in one? I'm sorry, is this Heaven?
I spent some time a few summers ago in Korea, and I instantly fell in love with the cuisine. I adore the emphasis on seafood and pork and anything spicy enough to clear your sinuses. I ate kimchi for breakfast, lunch and dinner. I ate a lot of kimchi.

The Korean brisket at Revival brings me back to meals in Seoul, only the offerings from Revival are much cleaner, crisper and downplayed, which I appreciate. It seems like everything I ate in Seoul was a veritable feast, but this dish takes the best elements of the cuisine and condenses it into one perfect lunch.

The elements of the plate are arranged so that you can either eat them all separately or do what I did, which is make a sort of cabbage wrap out of everything. It's messy, but worth it to get a taste of each different offering simultaneously.

You start with the fresh, ever-so-light-green Napa cabbage leaves. Spread a little of the house-made gochujang onto the leaves (it's messier if you drizzle it on top). Gochujang is a fermented condiment made from red chile, soybeans, rice and salt. It packs a punch and adds extra depth to the meal.

Next, slap a slice of that utterly divine, melt-in-your-mouth, knock-your-socks-off brisket on top of the gochujang, followed by some kimchi, and finally the marinated bean sprouts and peppers. Try to maintain the integrity of the wrap while you eat, but if it falls apart, just pick up a fork and go to town.

Really, the best element of the dish is that awesome brisket. I have yet to have the presence of mind to ask exactly what Korean spices Revival uses to marinate it, but in all honesty, I'll probably never ask. So long as I can still eat it, I don't really care.

The list so far:
No. 100: Bangkok Fries at Boheme
No. 99: Almond Croissant at Phoenicia
No. 98: Bulgogi Tacos with Kimchi at Chi'Lantro
No. 97: Soft Pretzel from Mongoose Versus Cobra
No. 96: Chicken and Waffles at Adair Kitchen
No. 95: Sweet Potato Gnocchi at Brooklyn Athletic Club
No. 94: Foie Gras Mac & Cheese at BRC Gastropub
No. 93: Vuelve a la Vida Soup at Connie's Seafood
No. 92: Homeroom at Bernie's Burger Bus
No. 91: Lobster Cake Benedict at Sorrel Urban Bistro
No. 90: Uncle Daryl's Cake at The Chocolate Bar
No. 89: Porchetta e Fagioli at Giacomo's Cibo e Vino
No. 88: Sesame Soft Balls at Golden Dim Sum
No. 87: Crab Daddy Bao at Fat Bao
No. 86: Ham, Egg & Cheese Crepe at Melange Creperie
No. 85: Pork Tamales at Irma's
No. 84: Greek Burger at Hubcap Grill
No. 83: Lobster Roll at Maine-ly Sandwiches
No. 82: Grilled Ahi Tuna at St. John's Fire
No. 81: Catfish and Grits at The Breakfast Klub
No. 80: The Marie Laveau Sandwich at Sandy Witch
No. 79: Carnissima Pizza at Coppa Osteria
No. 78: Mortadella Sandwich at 13 Celsius
No. 77: Lamb Lollipops at Américas
No. 76: The Heights Burger at Gratifi
No. 75: 'Date With a Pig' at Sparrow Bar + Cookshop
No. 74: Taco al Pastor at Taco Keto
No. 73: Chili Cheese Mac from Jus' Mac
No. 72: Chicken Pot Pie at Kenny & Ziggy's
No. 71: Lazy Lane Frites at Brasserie 19
No 70: Banana Split at Cloud 10 Creamery
No. 69: Dozen Raw Oysters at Pappas Seafood
No. 68: Green "Hurry Curry" at Nit Noi
No. 67: Bad Ass Hambur-Torta at Pistolero's
No. 66: Enchiladas de Mole at La Guadalupana
No. 65: Shorty Mac at H-Town StrEATS
No. 64: Squirrel Master Burger at Cottonwood
No. 63: Bánh Mì at Les Givral's Sandwich and Cafe

Location Info

Revival Market

550 Heights Blvd, Houston, TX

Category: Restaurant

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gossamersixteen topcommenter

I'm sorry but revival has really fallen off quality wise; used to be a good grocer now it's mainly a half assed coffee and lunch place and the food just isn't that good anymore. They've gotten too big for the britches, full on their own success, and the quality just isn't there anymore while the prices have grown to outrageous levels (would make whole foods blush).  But leave it to HP to continue to feed their ego.


I totally disagree.  I often go for their Saturday breakfasts and I love their meats.  The bacon is a whole other level and they carry so many local vendors.

KaitlinS topcommenter

@gossamersixteen Have you had the Korean brisket lately? I also wouldn't say it's HP "feeding their ego." I chose to write about them, so that would be me, personally. I haven't had the coffee or bought groceries there (not in my 'hood), but that brisket is HEAVENLY.

gossamersixteen topcommenter

@Aggie_Kelli I'll agree with you on the bacon side, but when it's served on burnt bread, with six tons of nasty vinegary sauce, and the nasty blossom top (replete with stem) of a tomato and you get charged $9 for that travesty --  see how happy you are.  You can ruin good bacon with a terrible sandwich/BLT..

gossamersixteen topcommenter

@KaitlinS @gossamersixteen Smoking a brisket while time intensive isn't difficult, applying gojuchang (which I have 4 different kinds of in my fridge) also nothing remarkable, maybe some additional garlic, ginger, and dried korean pepper powder and viola, and that will be $30+ a pound -- uh no thanks. Simple provisions trip to Super H Mart, and a $11 brisket from HEB and you're good to go at 1/10th the price.


@gossamersixteen @Aggie_Kelli I agree with both of you. The Saturday breakfast specials are always good, but the menu stuff (both breakfast and lunch) has for me ranged from mediocre (roast beef sandwich) to awful (buttermilk biscuit sandwich). The coffee is always delicious whatever time of day.

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