Philippe Restaurant + Lounge's New Menu Under Chef Manuel Pucha: A Promising Debut

Categories: Restaurant News

Puchascallop.jpg
Photo by Mai Pham
Scallops a la plancha, one of the menu items introduced by Philippe Restaurant's new executive chef, Manuel Pucha.

Philippe Schmit's sudden departure from his eponymous restaurant, Philippe Restaurant + Lounge, left many wondering: What is going to happen to a restaurant named Philippe when Philippe himself is not there?

A recent media dinner to introduce executive chef Manuel Pucha and his new menu answered that question. Pucha, who worked alongside Schmit for the the past 15 years, and was chef de cuisine at Philippe until Schmit's departure, has stepped into the role of executive chef with confidence, creating a menu of dishes that is already being well-received by Philippe's regular clientele.

Though the menu retains some of Philippe's signature dishes -- the sherried onion soup, crab and avocado appetizer, margarita tuna tartare, braised Burgundy beef cheeks, and the coq au vin -- it moves away from the "French cowboy" brand of cuisine espoused by Schmit, which often melded traditional French cuisine with Texan ingredients and flavors. Pucha's new menu has more of a comfort-driven continental sensibility, with a tagline of "Subtle comforts, culinary flair." The menu also incorporates more locally sourced, organic, and sustainable meat, poultry, fish, and produce.

Puchatart.jpg
Photo by Mai Pham
New on Philippe's lunch menu: Heirloom tomato and mozzarella tart.

The media dinner highlighted some of the most notable changes on the menu, starting with an heirloom tomato and mozzarella tart. Part French pastry and part Italian caprese salad, the buttery starter of light puff pastry combined with warm, melted mozzarella and tomato was one of the highlights of the night for its pleasing combination of flavors and textures.

Next, beautifully presented on a slate board over a swirly pattern of smoked carrot puree, extra-large pan-seared U-10 sea scallops were plump and mouthwatering, their slightly sweet, almost springy flesh seared to a light golden crust. Small glazed carrots, pearl onions, and fava beans completed this dish, adding both color and a good contrast of flavors.

Puchasalmon.jpg
Photo by Mai Pham
Organic Scottish salmon is delicate in flavor.

For healthful-minded individuals, a lightly poached, olive oil-cured organic Scottish salmon was also notable. Served over a quinoa and fennel-apple slaw, the salmon was delicate, moist, and cooked to a perfect medium rare, the accompaniments lightly seasoned so as not to overpower the fish.

A glistening, crispy-skinned leg of duck confit was the standout of the evening for its flawless execution. One of Schmit's signature dishes, the classic French itemis one of the best you'll find in Houston, the dark meat of the duck rich and full of flavor, with gorgeously crisped skin that had been fully rendered of all its fat. So good was the skin, in fact, that I peeled it off and munched on bits of it, as I would a potato chip.


Location Info

Philippe - CLOSED

1800 Post Oak Blvd., Houston, TX

Category: Restaurant

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9 comments
damrac
damrac

If this place is owned by Crest Investment Corporation ,they can't forget about it. No American that have respect for their Iraq veterans will eat there

Gilda
Gilda

Tried it last week for lunch and was very impressed. Cozy bar downstairs that I really like. Maybe better without the French cowboy as figurehead.

erichenao
erichenao topcommenter

Looks really great! But will they change the name of the restaurant?

Mai Pham
Mai Pham topcommenter

@erichenao From what I understand, they plan to keep the name. Kind of like how Frank's Chop House became Frank's Americana Revival (without Frank) or  how Landry's is still Landry's without Landry family 

e_sandler
e_sandler

@erichenao They don't plan to. Philippe Schmit remains a limited partner, although he's no longer involved in day to day operations.

KaitlinS
KaitlinS topcommenter

@erichenao I've been wondering the same thing! I think we all have...

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