First Look at Oak Leaf Smokehouse, Replacing Pete's BBQ on Telephone Road

Categories: Q, Restaurant News

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Photos by Katharine Shilcutt
I honestly don't remember when Pete's BBQ closed. The little barbecue shack on Telephone Road was utterly unremarkable aside from its fantastically retro sign, and waving cowboy above the entrance who beckoned people inside for chopped beef sandwiches and baked potatoes. If I was in the area, it was to eat at Kanomwan or Taqueria Alma Latina or Bohemeo's or any number of other, more interesting establishments.

But I always wished that Pete's was good, if only because of the general dearth of good barbecue in Houston -- and if only to have a reason to visit the cute red restaurant with a fabulous sign.

It looks like the old place may finally be home to some good barbecue now, however, thanks to new tenants Oak Leaf Smokehouse. Owners Brian and Lisa -- a husband and wife team whose only real restaurant experience prior to embarking on this barbecue adventure was as silent partners in The Hay Merchant and Underbelly -- have moved in, fixed the old place up and are committed to exploring not only Texas-style 'cue, but the many other permutations across the nation as well.

It's an interesting move, and one that I'm curious to see expanded on. For now, though, Oak Leaf Smokehouse is still in its soft-opening stage and only open for lunch.

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Although it's only been open roughly a week, word about Lewis' barbecue seems to have gotten out. Thanks to this and its close proximity to downtown, Oak Leaf is already selling out of certain types of barbecue each day. When I visited yesterday, the pork ribs had sold out by 12:30 p.m.

"Are we sold out of ribs again?" the woman behind the counter asked one of the cooks. "Those ribs are popular!" The men behind us in line who'd come in too late were chagrined, but finally decided on another option to round out their three-meat plates.

I can see why the ribs are going fast. The post oak that's used in Oak Leaf's smoker imparts a very gentle, sweet, buttery flavor to the pork. The tender meat falls off the bone in that expected Texan way, with no sauce necessary to add any additional moisture.

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I was less impressed with the exceptionally lean brisket, which was far too dry for my tastes. The thick, barky smoke ring I look for in a good brisket was mostly absent, but I expect (hope?) this will improve over time. Or not. I heard a customer at the counter specifically requesting his brisket lean, to which my dining companion responded under his breath: "Someone should tell him he doesn't have to ask for it that way..."

I'm one of those people who craves the rugged, fatty end of a brisket and realize that not every barbecue fan lines up in this camp. For those diametrically opposed, the lean brisket with a soft woodsy flavor at Oak Leaf will probably please.

I couldn't find any fault with the Carolina-style pulled pork, which I was pleased to see was of the chunky debris type rather than the stringy shreds of pork butt, nor the incredibly juicy smoked chicken. Ditto the sides of house-fried potato chips, thick-cut and vigorously salted, and the jiggly corn pudding with half a cob's worth of kernels in each bowl.

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The ranch-style beans were just average, while the warm German potato salad showed promise. I'd like to see a bit more vinegar tang to the potatoes, and more of them in the bowl. The old adage is that no one goes to a barbecue joint for the sides -- so why fuss with them? Oak Leaf Smokehouse disagrees, and stated its position in the press release I received last week: "[Sides] should not be a necessary evil; they should ideally be crave-worthy on their own."

That commitment is admirable, as is Oak Leaf's desire to make all of the sides both vegetarian and gluten-free -- making the barbecue joint accessible to an even wider audience than normal.

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One thing that clearly isn't gluten-free, however, is the painfully good homemade chocolate cake we finished our meal with, a shotgun wedding of Texas sheet cake and a brownie. Fluffy and moist and oozing with chocolate frosting, it made me utter a silent apology to my mother and grandmother, whose own baked goods had just been topped by this massive slice of heaven. Forks clanged as my friend and I fought over the last bite, even though I was well and stuffed by this point.

The quality of both the food and service at Oak Leaf Smokehouse -- which has replaced Pete's old steam-table cafeteria line set-up with counter service that brings trays of food out to you when they're ready -- is even more impressive considering its infancy. The restaurant promises to be open for dinner soon, another improvement over its predecessor (which was only open for lunch). I can't wait to see what other improvements Oak Leaf has in store.



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Location Info

Pete's BBQ Brisket & Seafood - CLOSED

1000 Telephone Road, Houston, TX

Category: Restaurant

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13 comments
Anse
Anse

What is it with lean brisket? It's an epidemic. 

bluelinebikes
bluelinebikes

I love the Oak Leaf Smokehouse, and I'll pay whatever they ask. I've had BBQ all over this state, and the brisket at OLS is top-notch, as is the sauce.  It's awesome to see so many new businesses popping up in Eastwood, and if Oak Leaf is any indication there are great things moving Eastward.

grrrrrrrr
grrrrrrrr

Were it not owned by investors in hay Merchant and Underbelly, you'd have no interest in Oak Leaf

FattyFatBastard
FattyFatBastard topcommenter

Those prices seem extravagant for that area of town. 

kshilcutt
kshilcutt moderator editortopcommenter

@grrrrrrrr I knew as I wrote that line that someone would inevitably come in and leave this exact comment. Thank you for conforming to expectations. All is right with the world.

MWC2
MWC2

@grrrrrrrr I don't completely disagree, but what Oak Leaf did similar to most "popular" restaurants in town was issue a press release to the local food media.  That is probably the reality behind the food medias interest.  i think that hay merchant underbelly tidbit is was simply added because its a. interesting and b. relevant.   

Orly
Orly

@FattyFatBastard So you're saying when you dine in non-hispanic neighborhoods you are happy to pay more?

kshilcutt
kshilcutt moderator editortopcommenter

@MWC2 @grrrrrrrr p.s. I didn't get the press release until after I'd made up my mind to eat there. What was the impetus? A post on Eater Houston. Growl away!  :)

albertina
albertina

@e_sandler   ...and we thought it was that press release. I hope you published it in its entirety, cause I love reading them.

e_sandler
e_sandler

Not that you asked, but, I didn't know they were connected to Hay Merchant and Underbelly until I'd already met them. My interest came from two things: (a) following new restaurants is why people read Eater and (ii) I really like barbecue. 

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