The 5 Must-Try Dishes at Feast, Before It Closes for Good

By Katharine Shilcutt Tue., Dec. 4 2012 at 8:00 AM

Photo by Katharine Shilcutt

3. Calf's Liver with Bacon

You may think that you don't like liver. That may be because you grew up eating manky old cow livers or cafeteria-style mush covered in equally unattractive brown sludge. So do yourself a favor and let your tongue discover the truth of how truly wonderful a well-sautéed, finely seasoned piece of calf's liver truly is. Feast serves its liver oh-so-simply with sides of mashed potatoes and spinach, and coats the delicate calf's organ with a bright onion gravy that makes the whole thing hum.

Photo by Katharine Shilcutt

2. Crispy Roasted Pork Belly

There are those who argue that no one else in town has a finer touch when it comes to that oft-overused and off-exploited underbelly of the pig. And I don't disagree with them. Feast treats its pork bellies with respect and consideration, not as a gimmick to be thrown carelessly atop a pile of nachos or scoop of foie gras ice cream. The soft potato cake resting underneath is a nice change from standard mashed potatoes, and the red cabbage with apples that serves as the bed of the entire dish slices cleanly through the starch and fat with each decadent bite.

Photo by Katharine Shilcutt

1. Beef Sweetbreads

Although I've always insisted that Feast serves so much more than just offal, it's ultimately a savory offal treat that's my personal favorite here. The beef sweetbreads -- No. 50 on last year's list of 100 Favorite Dishes -- are served in a mad jumble atop a mound of mashed rutabaga. A side of tangy Swiss chard is softened by the rich, meaty juices from the sweetbreads -- typically the thymus or pancreas of an animal -- and a few fresh mint leaves on top provide a sweet, bright note to the entire dish. It may sound like too much, but the sweetbreads themselves are pillowy and incredibly creamy without being too heavy. And the earthy sweetness of the more roughly textured rutabaga in place of, say, mashed potatoes, keeps the dish light, too.

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Location Info

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Feast

219 Westheimer, Houston, TX

Category: Restaurant

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Feast, Montrose, openings and closings, Top Five

We Recommend

Jalapeno

I will miss that pork belly most. One of the best things I have ever had. The sticky toffee pudding is the best in the city, hands down. We used to enjoy lunch there frequently but they stopped serving lunch a while ago and we don't get there for dinner much. We tried several times to get reservations at their Sunday roasts, but they were booked whenever we called.

Matthew

it's a shame they're closing. perhaps the ITL folks just couldn't appreciate creative dishes, thoughtfully prepared. maybe they'd have been able to prosper if they'd installed some skee-ball or offered ranch dressing.

succulent

@Matthew well, you're a funny fellow but the only problem with that argument is that the team at Feast first located way out in your hinterlands, and had to close up shop, lasting a millisecond compared to their tenure in Montrose. So, maybe if they'd had skee-ball or ranch at their original spot....

Matthew

or perhaps if they'd signed a five-year lease in the "hinterlands" they'd just now be giving it up?

FattyFatBastard topcommenter

@Matthew As opposed to whom?

Matthew

i enjoy posting this when a restaurant located ITL that is lauded by critics closes. oddly, the clientele are never derided as uncultured or boorish when that's the case.

http://blogs.houstonpress.com/eating/2011/03/marco_wiles_divorces_the_woodl.php

FattyFatBastard topcommenter

I will be trying all of these soon, and I will comment on how they were.

Thanks Katharine!

cornfed

Feast? Closing? ....why? Every critic and mortal seems to like the place...what's up with them? Wanderlust?

gossamersixteen topcommenter

2 Like

FFB is smiling somewhere.. :)

conebaby topcommenter

I must try the Exmoor toasts. I mean to every time, but they always have such an interesting appetizer special that we skip it; last Friday was an incredible terrine. They had just put coq au vin back on the menu so I ordered that, but the fish/scallop pie will be my entree on my next trip.

We celebrated our first wedding anniversary at Feast, having just moved to Houston seven months earlier. It has a lot of sentimental value for us--we're quite sad.