A Great Italian Wine List at Nundini

Categories: Wine Time

bresaola pizza.jpg
Photo by Jeremy Parzen.
The bresaola pizza at Nundini Chef's Table Italian Kitchen & Wine Bar on North Shepherd.
For an Italian wine lover like me, the wine list at Nundini Chef's Table Italian Kitchen & Wine Bar, the subject of this week's cafe review (I filled in for Katharine Shilcutt), is a dream come true.

It covers nearly every wine-growing region in Italy, and its prices are not just reasonable... they're fantastic.

And while you're not going to find the heavy hitters there (the "special occasion" wines that we reserve for birthdays, anniversaries, graduations, etc.), you will find a wondrous encyclopedia of native Italian grape varieties and appellation that chronicles the mosaic of aromas and flavors of the fair country.

In my review of the restaurant in this week's edition of the paper, I write about my disappointment with the food. Considering owner Giampaolo Nundini's legacy as one of the leading importers of Italian foods in Texas, I was surprised by the disconnect between the high quality of the ingredients and the poor execution of the dishes.

But the materia prima offers great promise: I loved the bresaola pizza, topped with mozzarella, Parmigiano Reggiano, and thinly sliced air-dried beef from northern Italy. Whether reaching for a clean, crisp, bright Dolcetto from Alba (Piedmont) or a blend of Montepulciano and Nero di Troia from Castel del Monte (Apulia [Puglia]), I could spend a year marching through the wine regions of Italy and munching on the wide selection of pizzas at Nundini.

I probably won't take my wife Tracie P there for our anniversary in January. But Cousins Marty and Neil and I will surely be back to study Sangiovese on a Wednesday night while our wives are sipping Nebbiolo and nibbling truffles elsewhere.

The food at Nundini performed best when it was its simplest: Great ingredients, combined judiciously.

Click here for my review.



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Location Info

Nundini Chef's Table Italian Kitchen and Wine Bar

500 N. Shepherd, Houston, TX

Category: Restaurant

My Voice Nation Help
4 comments
jekylvinwhisk
jekylvinwhisk

Im flummoxed: why top pizza with a very lean meat like Bresaola? Prosciutto I can kind of understand, but Bresaola is just better standing alone, with bit of lemon squirt, good olive oil and decent bread. 

Houstess
Houstess

I assume this is related to Nundini Imported Food Store that has been on Shepherd forever and a day?  Is it near that deli/grocer?  Or in it?  Maybe that info is in the cafe review.

Opaco
Opaco

Nundini! Love it. Didn't know they were prepping anything but panini. Gotta get back

Metternich
Metternich

Thanks for reminding us about Nundini!  It's a pleasure nook and I like finding rare stuff there; black pasta is a favorite.

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