Would You Pay $19 for a Plate of Figs?

Categories: Market Watch

figplate.jpg
Photos by Katharine Shilcutt
I took this picture because I didn't think anyone would believe that I paid $19 for two-and-a-half figs. Okay, and some cheese.
They're lovely figs, to be sure. All two-and-a-half of them. But $19? For the plate you see on the left there, next to a $12 plate of tomatoes, yes. $19.

But as lovely as they are, when my parents and I ordered the $19 fig plate at Roots Bistro (the subject of this week's cafe review) a few Sundays ago for brunch, we were expecting something -- shall we say -- a bit more substantial. The menu described the dish as "Celeste Fig, Golden Fig, Radish Sprout, Purple Pepper & Idiazabal," all of which were certainly present on the plate we received. If only in terribly small portions.

There was a celeste fig, split in half. And a golden fig, also split in half. And about a third of another golden fig accompanied by half of a tomato. And there, at the end, a wedge of crumbly, salty sheep's milk Idiazabal cheese. The plating itself was impeccable, but I regarded the overall portion size with despair.

Was it my Texas showing? Or was this a reasonable amount of food for $19?

Underbelly 016.jpg
Figs and goat cheese at Underbelly.
For comparison's sake, I paid $9 for a fig tart at Underbelly -- another restaurant which, like Roots, sources all of its produce and other ingredients from local producers or farmers markets -- earlier this week. It also contained celeste figs, along with sugar figs, goat cheese, pecans and honey. But unlike the brunch dish at Roots, it was large enough to split between two people for dessert.

So where does that extra $10 at Roots for a very similar dish come in? That's what I'm still trying to figure out, as the pricing at the new, veggie-centric Montrose bistro can be all over the board.

It couldn't have been the slim wedge cheese, which is roughly $17 a pound at places like Spec's. And I'm fairly sure it wasn't the sprinkling of radish sprouts underneath the figs, which did give the dish a spicy, earthy crunch. And I know how much two figs cost at the store -- not anywhere close to $19.

Roots_0591.jpg
Photo by Troy Fields
I really like the new Roots Bistro; I just wish its prices wouldn't fluctuate so much.
This is the most frustrating thing about Roots Bistro, a restaurant which I otherwise adore. I love its charming, inviting dining room and open kitchen with warmly glowing pizza oven. I love its daily rotating menu of local, seasonal produce, with most dishes centered firmly around vegetables if not entirely composed of them. I love its inexpensive wine list (which, to be fair, is inexpensive for a reason -- the wines here are pretty staunchly low-key bottles).

But the pricing is all out of whack. One night, you can pay $12 for a huge mound of emerald-colored Swiss chard glistening in a lemon vinaigrette that's enough for three people (and $12 is still a little pricey, but on the reasonable end of that spectrum) or $15 for a pizza topped with ruddy, beefy slices of coppa that will also feed two. I've even seen a beautiful lamb flank steak with wild porcinis for only $14.

Then again, you'll pay $19 for that same coppa pizza at brunch. Or $20 for a gristly, undercooked veal breast served with two eggs -- and nothing else. Even the peach biscuits were $2.50 each that day at lunch, but at least they were quite good (and served with a pot of warm maple syrup).

Roots_0051.jpg
Photo by Troy Fields
Chef German Mosquera and his team are doing great things with garden-fresh produce, if you can afford it.
It crossed my mind at brunch that perhaps the prices were much higher than normal because the mimosas and sangrias were free that day and the restaurant was taking a loss on the liquor. However, we only got one of each -- not quite enough to pad our bills for $20 veal breasts or $19 fig plates. And when my editor returned later that week for dinner, the $19 fig plate was still obstinately there on the menu.

If and when Roots Bistro gets its prices in line, I'll happily become a regular in the cozy space, tucked over a few plates of chef German Mosquera's fine, veggie-friendly food. But for now, it's only a restaurant I can recommend with reservations -- or with a fat pocketbook.

For more on Roots Bistro, read this week's cafe review.


Follow Eating Our Words on Facebook and on Twitter @EatingOurWords

Location Info

Venue

Map

Underbelly

1100 Westheimer Road, Houston, TX

Category: Restaurant

My Voice Nation Help
7 comments
Sort: Newest | Oldest
Corey
Corey

In short, hells to the nah.. No way; not even with money coming out of my ears would I be  spending money with such reckless abandon.

FattyFatBastard
FattyFatBastard

Considering how absurdly easy it is to grow figs in Houston, I'd have to say no.

LaurenK
LaurenK

Thanks for this, Katherine. While I love reading restaurant reviews, I often find that they place less emphasis on value-for-price than I do as a “normal” patron. If the food is truly divine then I don’t care too much what it costs, but Houston has a lot of good restaurants, and value (including drink prices) is a big differentiator in terms of where we do our casual and semi-casual dining.  

sbterry
sbterry

For $19 (+ maybe a bit) and a trip to Central Market, I could get figs, cheese, prosciutto and probably a bottle of wine!  Then I could have the comfort and joy of sharing with a friend in the comforts of my own home!

Katharine Shilcutt
Katharine Shilcutt

I suppose the first and most immediately relevant way in which it differs is in the cost: If you split apart the four courses on Oxheart's $49 tasting menu, they'd cost $12.25 each. And if you split apart the seven courses on the $75 tasting menu, you're paying closer to $10 a dish. I also received more on my plates at Oxheart in general. Also - and no offense to the very talented Mosquera - Oxheart's team of chefs, led by Justin Yu, are playing in a different league entirely.

Houstess
Houstess

How is that any different from Oxheart's offerings?

ec
ec

9 and 19 are both ridiculous for figs which are in abundance right now.  If you enjoyed them, well be thankful

Now Trending

From the Vault

 

Loading...