Underbelly's Underpriced Wine List Gives Us More Reasons to Love It

Categories: Wine Time

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Photos by Troy Fields
Because there is so very much to discuss when it comes to Underbelly, the subject of this week's cafe review, I found myself having to trim back significantly in certain areas of the review in order to get a broader point across (which, TL;DR, is that Underbelly is where it's all happening and you should get in there soon).

One of those areas was Underbelly's terrific wine list.

A great charcuterie program and the Juicy Lucy aren't the only things that chef/owner Chris Shepherd brought to Underbelly from his days as the executive chef at Catalan. The restaurant where Shepherd made his mark on Houston was known not only for his food, but for its ridiculous wine list under sommelier Antonio Gianola. And you can thank Charles Clark and Grant Cooper for that, at least in part.

The duo, who owned Catalan (and also own/run its successor restaurant, Coppa), have a history of creating amazing wine lists in Houston, starting with their first restaurant -- Ibiza -- more than ten years ago. What's so amazing about the pair's wine lists isn't just the selection -- which is always thoughtful and well-curated -- but the outrageously low prices.

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Underbelly's wine selection is deep and broad.
On Ibiza's Web site to this day, the restaurant preaches the gospel of "an extensive wine list priced just above retail," a motto that's earned it extensive accolades. Most recently, Houston Chronicle food critic Alison Cook noted Ibiza at No. 87 on her list of Houston's 100 best restaurants as having the "best-priced wine list in the city -- and a serious one, at that."

Thanks to Shepherd's determination to bring that attitude to his new restaurant, I don't think it will be long before Underbelly begins to get that kind of attention for its list, too.

Underbelly's wine list is full of fun, trippy, adventurous wines that are difficult to find in, say, your neighborhood Spec's. And if you can find them in the store, they're not marked up by much. Take a 2010 Lemelson Riesling from Willamette Valley: It's roughly $19 in the store, and $35 at Underbelly. Or a 2007 Trimbach Pinot Blanc from Alsace: It's around $16 at the store, and $29 at Underbelly. In many cases, the mark-ups are far lower.

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To see more photos from Underbelly, check out this week's slideshow.
These mark-ups hover around the 80 to 85 percent range, which may seem high at first. Until you remember that the average mark-up of wine in a restaurant ranges from 300 to 500 percent, especially at high-end or upscale restaurants. Suddenly, that 85 percent mark-up seems downright generous.

Aside from the sheer relief of being able to enjoy a nice bottle of wine without taking out a second mortgage at dinner, the list itself at Underbelly is a joy to read. Decorated by local artists (including the daughter of one of our bloggers, Phaedra Cook) and full of colorful anecdotes and information about certain bottles, it's fun to peruse even if you're not a wine drinker.

I could also love the list, of course, because Underbelly happens to agree with us when it comes to Texas wines:

One thing that hurts Texas' wine image are the wines it produces, or shall I say "makes". If you ever stop by the Texas wine section at Spec's you'll see what I mean. Pick up the bottles and read them...closely, very few are using Texas grapes, and if they are they might also be using up to 25% of grapes or juice from California, Chile or wherever they can get it.

The list has only three Texas wines featured, one of which -- a La Cruz de Comal Pétard Blanc from Dickson -- Jeremy Parzen just noted this week as one of the best wines in the state. Go try it at Underbelly, where you can pair it with some of the best food in the state.

For more on Underbelly, read this week's cafe review and browse through our extensive slideshow.


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Location Info

Underbelly

1100 Westheimer Road, Houston, TX

Category: Restaurant

Coppa Ristorante Italiano - CLOSED

5555 Washington, Houston, TX

Category: Restaurant

Ibiza

2450 Louisiana, Houston, TX

Category: Restaurant

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6 comments
Mam
Mam

If you don't like Underbelly, you can go across the street to El Real.  I've heard somewhere that's good.

mike
mike

Texas wines are terrible, and I love Texas as much as anyone, so it pains me to say that this is one thing (sigh) that California does much better than do we (see also: drug policies, beaches).  That aside, Underbelly should be applauded for the cocktail/wine/beer program, which is as good as anywhere in the city for the price.  Wuwu--you have to understand that it's tough to make money in the business and high rollers who shell out for wine are subsidizing your meal.  Sadly, Underbelly's food is not always great.  I've had a few disappointing dishes and never a good dessert.  I think that the restaurant's lack of focus might be hurting it a little bit in terms of consistency.  They're still young and will find their feet.

Sampsondelilah
Sampsondelilah

Really great review Katharine, and the wine prices are like you say, simply icing on the cake. Very cool that a chef and his team assemble the best talents and let it rock. Sure they're going to be rough spots along the way, but Underbelly aspires to my ideal of what a modern chef-driven restaurant should be. Especially one here in Houston.

Wuwu
Wuwu

Katherine....settle down sparky and let me put you in your place...your tone in this is like this is great news that the consumer is not getting ripped off like most restaurants...it was just a matter of time and we are seeing this in many areas of the dining world where wine prices are coming back in line to where they should be.  I just can't get all warm, wet and fuzzy inside that becasue of this Underbelly should be a place we need to rush out and go to.  I've been twice, food below average and I believe I'm not the only who feels this and I do like the wine prices but the select number of Texas wines they have is an abortion gone bad, they are awful, and yes I tried two of them.  They are NOT must haves, they are terrible.  Other issue I have with this place is both times I've been along with both times I been to Hay next door is they are always out of things.  Not sure how they can make their mark by always being out of things on the menu.  You have to look at the entire scope of the operation and yes wine is a component, but just because they have prices where they should be in this economy does not mean "more reason to love it...."

HungryTerri
HungryTerri

More for the rest of us, then.  Works for me.

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