Taste Perversion: Artichokes and Wine

Categories: Wine Time

artichokes.jpg
Photo by Tracie P.
Artichokes start to come into season in the spring but are still harvested through the summer.
"Taste perversion" is what the scientists call it. The expression refers to the way that foods (or drugs) can affect taste after they have been consumed.

In the wine world, artichokes are considered one of the greatest offenders.

The issue is caused by a component called cynarin (after the Latin name for the artichoke, Cynara cardunculus) that makes water taste sweet when preceded by artichokes, and wine taste bitter.

Does that mean that wine must be excluded from meals where artichokes are served?

artichoke flower.jpg
Photo by Jeremy Parzen.
I snapped this photo of an artichoke flower in bloom last year in June at a winery in Attikí (Attaca) not far from Athens, Greece.
At our house, where artichoke hearts are regularly breaded and deep-fried in a cast-iron skillet (this is Texas, after all), the answer is an unequivocal no. We're always game for pairing an aromatic white -- like Sauvignon Blanc or Friulano -- with our artichokes: The intense aroma and often herbaceous character of these wines works well with the thistle, even though it will attenuate the wine's fruit.

Like all nuggets of wine wisdom, this one, too, must be taken cum granu salis, as the ancient Romans used to say (with a grain of salt).

The important thing is to exclude artichokes from a meal where fine, aged, or rare wines are going to be poured. In those cases, you want to make sure that nothing in the meal eclipses the guests' impression of the wines -- a matter of good taste rather than science.

So whether you're grooving to the notes of a bright New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc or rocking to the tones of a mineral-driven Muscadet from France, don't hesitate this summer to get your artichoke on...



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3 comments
Michellealexissmith
Michellealexissmith

Here in Frascati near Rome ( where artichokes are a traditional dish) the local Rubillo goes very well ( it's a young red wine by Pallavicini), especially when they have been cooked in a brazier...talk about porn!

SirRon
SirRon

Nice garden porn! (Good read too.)

SAHMmelier
SAHMmelier

Agreed.  We usually go for a Sauvignon Blanc and I actually kind of enjoy the flavor changes.  I guess that is the same thing in me that kind of liked to try orange juice after brushing my teeth as a child.  What are some other "offenders" to be wary of when drinking fine wine?

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