Facundo Cafe Overcomes Its Car Wash Schtick, Makes Great Food

Categories: Local Spotlight

_MG_0725.jpg
Photos by Troy Fields
The stools at the counter overlooking the kitchen are the best seats in the house at Facundo Cafe.
I still remember a comment from the second time I wrote about Facundo Cafe, in a post about chef Danny Harper's signature bacon, avocado and spinach burger landing a spot on our list of 100 Favorite Dishes in Houston.

"I guess I'm not trendy enough to want to eat at the car wash," wrote commenter laurenmcqueen. Later in the comments section, she elaborated on her statement by writing:

It just seems like you're trying to get a jumpstart on the ever-growing trend of hipster trash-irony. Like people who take dressed-up engagement photos in landfills. But enjoy your lovely burger on the KSBJ-blaring patio overlooking the giant pothole on Ella.

Aside from the fact that the increasingly meaningless word "hipster" is now being thrown around far too often, I took issue with the idea that Facundo Cafe was attempting to be ironic or trendy. One step inside the place would dispel even the harshest critic of that notion.

_MG_0958.jpg
Betcha by golly wow.
In this week's cafe review of Facundo -- a burger joint inside a car wash -- I addressed that same idea: The idea that just because a place is in a gimmicky location, it can't possibly be good.

That's just not true at Facundo Cafe, where Danny Harper and his sous chef, Marco Venicio Lopez, are anything but "hipster trash" and instead devote themselves to turning out great meals for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

The meals are just elevated enough through thoughtful touches -- an outstanding housemade salsa, freshly baked buns from Sheila Partin's Sweet Sourdough or a well-constructed macchiato at breakfast -- as to rise above the gimmicky location and make the cafe a destination in its own right. It's still diner food in almost every sense, right down to the way the stools at the counter overlook the bustling kitchen, but -- again -- rises above that designation through these small flairs.

Of course, you don't have to take me at my word: I encourage you to experience Facundo for yourself. If a picture is worth a thousand words, a meal with Harper and his crew is worth a million dispelled, erroneously preconceived notions.



Follow Eating Our Words on Facebook and on Twitter @EatingOurWords

Location Info

Facundo Cafe

3103 Ella, Houston, TX

Category: Restaurant

Like this Story?

Sign up for the Dining Newsletter: The week's top local food news and events, plus interviews with chefs and restaurant owners, dining tips, and a peek at our print review.

Privacy Policy
Sign up for free stuff, news info & more!

Tools

Browse Voice Nation
  • Voice Places

    Voice Places

    Discover restaurants, nightlife, travel, shopping...

  • VOICE Daily Deals

    VOICE Daily Deals

    Get 50 to 90% off every day on restaurants, movies, massages...

  • Best Of

    Best Of...

    More than 10,000 of the BEST things to eat, drink, and experience

  • My Voice Nation

    My Voice Nation

    Join the Village Voice community and get exclusive deals and info

  • Happy Hour

    Happy Hour

    Your local Happy Hour guide at your fingertips

or

Log in or Sign up

Social Connect:

Use your favorite account to access My Voice Nation.


Use your My Voice Nation account to log in:





Forgot password?
or

Sign Up or Log in

Social Connect:

Sign up for My Voice Nation with your preferred network.


Sign up for a My Voice Nation account:



Privacy policy