Chef Chat, Part 1: Kevin Naderi of Roost

Categories: Chef Chat

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Photos by Mai Pham
Chef/Owner Kevin Naderi of Roost
It's not often that a small restaurant becomes an instant hit, but from what I could see on a busy Tuesday night with a small line forming at the door, neighborhood eatery Roost possesses everything it needs to make it -- a small, cozy space; warm, friendly service; and well-priced, memorable food.

The two-month-old restaurant, owned and operated by 26-year-old native Houstonian Kevin Naderi, is the quintessential neighborhood watering hole you can walk to if you live in the neighborhood. It's a place to stop by on a moment's notice in the hopes of snagging a table (they don't accept reservations), where the staff are affectionately called "roosters," and where the motto is "food and drink amongst friends."

We caught up with Naderi for a chat on the day he was nominated as one of Eater Houston's "Hottest Chefs of 2012."

EOW: When did you open? It was very recent.

KN: It was December 13.

EOW: It was a really quiet opening, it just snuck up on us.

KN: It was, because it was a quiet purchase, and because I didn't think I was going to open up a restaurant. I was on Craigslist looking for an apartment, and this property came up, so I came over here and talked to the lady, who was the owner at the time. She was a Mexican lady running a Cuban restaurant -- Latina Cafe. She said it was the whole property, and I saw the potential there, so I jumped on it. My parents were really supportive, they went halves with me on it.

EOW: So from the time you found it on Craigslist to the time it opened...

KN: I bought the property on October 5. I was in Chicago on a trip at the time, I came back, renovated it, and opened it on December 13.

EOW: You're from Houston, aren't you?

KN: I'm from Houston, my ethnic background is Persian. I'm one of the only Persian chefs in town.

EOW: And did you go to culinary school?

KN: I did. I went to the CIA for a couple of weeks, but decided to come back and go to the Art Institute.

EOW: I heard it was expensive there.

KN: They're all expensive. It was a good stepping stone to work in their kitchen, and learn how to work with numbers and stuff. But I've been working in restaurants since I was 15. First professional kitchen was the Hilton on Post Oak when it was The Doubletree. Since then, I've worked at Brennan's, obviously Haven, a short stint at Reef, staged at Picholine in New York, worked under Robert Gadsby at Soma. I've been in Houston for a while, I went to Memorial High School.

EOW: So you grew up here, went to culinary school, worked in all these restaurants. And so, when bought this, were you working in a kitchen?

KN: I was consulting for Saint Genevieve in West Ave. I still work with those guys, they're good friends. I'm actually meeting with them tomorrow to work on their spring menu. I was doing that, and yeah, I left Haven on good terms -- everybody thinks I left on bad terms.

roost dining.jpg
The small 50 seat space was packed on a Tuesday night
EOW: How long were you there [at Haven]?

KN: Since opening. It was almost 20 months. I was the Executive Sous Chef. It was just Randy and I. I kind of just wanted to grow as a cook and as a person, and I had a good opportunity doing the consulting thing, and I kind of jumped on it. It was funny because I never figured I would open up a place like this. I thought 50 seats should be a good transition. We'd all geared up for six months of loss, but we've been doing 160 a night. It's wild. It's been good.

EOW: Well, the location couldn't be better...

KN: The clientele, the neighborhood is awesome. Everyone's been very supportive. Technically, it's Montrose, but River Oaks is just right over Shepherd.

EOW: Do you get a feel for the demographics here?

KN: It's funny because you definitely get the hipsters, they come in and hang out. You get a more mature crowd, which is really loyal to what you're offering them -- reasonable priced stuff. You get a lot of young families, couples that just had a kid. Early thirties, just moved into the area. It's a great neighborhood.

EOW: Is it mostly word of mouth?

KN: A lot of word of mouth. We've been lucky, on Yelp and Urbanspoon, the reviews have almost been too good, where I'm like, "Oh my god, the bubble's going to pop."

EOW: I actually Yelped you before I came, and the reviews have been 4.5 stars, which is really high.

KN: Yeah, 4.5 out of 5. Every now and then there are a couple of reviews that are not too happy. They think you're doing something too casual, or they just don't like how small the room is, but they're things we can't fix, because if I was to do more fine dining, it wouldn't have that price point, and it wouldn't have that comfortable feel to it.

EOW: So today you're not in the kitchen, are you normally not in the kitchen?

KN: I'm normally not at night. I have a prep cook in the morning with me, we kind of go through everything. I do most of the sauces, taste everything, so the consistency is there because I'm checking on everything all the time. All the charcuterie I do, cutting fish, all the butchering -- but at night, I have really good cooks that have worked for me in the past. They do a really good job to get it out.

Check back with us tomorrow as Naderi describes his cuisine, why he named his restaurant Roost, and who he thinks is the hottest chef in Houston.



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Location Info

Venue

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Roost

1972 Fairview St., Houston, TX

Category: Restaurant

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Erin Hicks-Miller
Erin Hicks-Miller

Everything I've tasted at Roost has been delicious - I'm especially in love with Kevin's roasted cauliflower!  It just so happens that the recipe will be featured in my upcoming book...

Clumsy Plumsy
Clumsy Plumsy

Definitely loved the cozy vibe and friendly faces when I checked it out last week. The Japanese-influenced cauliflower dish is stupendous... I wasn't at all surprised afterward when the waitress mentioned it's their most popular item. Desserts were disappointing (I tweeted a review at the time... yeah, I know, possibly worse than Yelp), but the earlier highs left me eager to come back and see what else Kevin and crew can cook up. I don't see why Roost couldn't and shouldn't be a continued success.

NancycommaLovesBreakfast
NancycommaLovesBreakfast

I'm just perturbed that with a name like ROOST (chicken, eggs, etc) that they don't serve breakfast! 

Mai Pham
Mai Pham

I'm trying to get him to do Sunday Brunch. He may just cave in if we mount a campaign.

Dirkdigler
Dirkdigler

 mounting campaigns is not very ladylike

Kylejack
Kylejack

 Gender policing is terrible, even as a bad joke.

Nickhalston
Nickhalston

Roost is what this neighborhood needed and I've been eating there at least once a week since they opened.  Everyone I've taken there are regular customer now.  I think chef Naderi knows what he is doing and will be around for years to come. Here is to his bubble ever expanding.

Jodie E
Jodie E

I've been three times and thoroughly enjoyed every visit, including once seated at a picnic table out front. The menu changes often - it is fresh and creative and a testament to Kevin Naderi's vision. Love the vibe, love the small dining room and  neighborhood feel. Nothing about this place is fussy, which is really refreshing. Terrific cuisine at reasonable prices and friendly service ... what more could you ask for?

Millyoo
Millyoo

 From Memorial HS to offbeat Montrose restaurant serving good chow. Trivia: Can anyone name another chef who fits this description?

meh
meh

there are a lot of 26-28yr old MHS graduates who work in the montrose area as chefs, somms & even food writers. "a lot" meaning, maybe 5 or more. oh, the irony. 

get off it.

Millyoo
Millyoo

 Not the answer I was looking for really. I said chefs. Not somms or dishwashers. And 'offbeat' is key. The combination of conservative Memorial upbringing and then quirky Montrose/RivOaks restaurant is what drew the thought.

Nancyneedsahug
Nancyneedsahug

Good grief Nancy. I've been there 3 times and really enjoyed it. The food isn't the same ole retreads and the service is enthusiastic but not obtrusive. It is one of the few places that actually feels like a neighborhood restaurant and a welcome respite on Friday night. Here's to his bubble ever expanding.

Signed,Not on Yelp

Nancycommanegative
Nancycommanegative

Good place. But the honeymoon will be over soon. And yes the bubble will pop.And any restaurant guy or critic who believes what he reads on Yelp and UrbanSpoon is somewhat delusional.

Zgozlou
Zgozlou

Roost is a resturant with affordable prices and very tasty varity of quality food and a very humble and caring chef. It is not a cookie cutter resturant and has a very European vibe to it.  I can eat there everyday and not get tired of it. I've been there at least 6 times since it opened and I went back with friends and everyone loved it and they took their friends. So I'm with Nancyneedsahug and Mai Pham, here's to his bubble expanding and for you Nancycommanegative- have you even been to Roost? I doubt it! 

Declan
Declan

 Methinks this NIMBY lives next door to Roost! Be glad they're not a club!

Katharine Shilcutt
Katharine Shilcutt

This is one of the more puzzling comments I've read on EOW lately...

Mai Pham
Mai Pham

Nancy, you weren't kidding when you picked the username with the word Negative. If I lived nearby it's definitely one of those places I could see myself stopping by on a regular basis. The food is well-prepared and there's enough on the menu to keep things interesting. I have already told several people about it and am already planning a return back.

As for Yelp, it's a tool I use to get a frame of reference, and in this particular case, there were enough valid reviews (not onesies or newbies) for me to give credence to what's being said. In fact, I ran into a couple who mentioned that they had visited on the strength of the Yelp reviews and were extremely complimentary on their way out. I'm with Nancyneedsahug, here's to his bubble expanding.

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