Warming Up to Down House

Categories: On the Menu

DH deviled eggs.JPG
Photo by Joanna O'Leary
"Deviled Eggs Three Different Ways"
I first visited Down House to vet the Pumpkin Phosphate during my search for great pumpkin dishes in Houston. I was heartily impressed with the phosphate but still a bit wary of the food. The restaurant, as Katharine Shilcutt has pointed out, has some identity issues, and I wondered whether the entrees would be as well-crafted as the cocktails.

A recent dinner has convinced me that Down House ("Coffeehouse. Restaurant. Bar.") is serious at least about fulfilling the second and third parts of its advertised trifecta status.

Familiar with the phosphate, I opted to start off with another of Down House's new winter cocktails, The Normandy Tart ($10). The name made me think of some hapless floozy traipsing along a French beach. The taste, however, was cooler and more sophisticated thanks to piquant citrus and ginger notes and a soothing base of allspice dram and egg whites.

DH green bean salad.JPG
Photo by Joanna O'Leary
Warm Green Bean Salad.
I managed to restrain myself from licking clean the cinnamon and sugar dipped rim by focusing on our appetizers. The "Deviled Eggs Three Different Ways" ($6) and "Unroast Beef Sandwiches" ($11) were delicate toasts topped eggs, dill and aioli, peanut sauce, and raw beef with a creamy horseradish sauce. Their light, whimsical flavors so evoked old-school English tea parties that eating them without gloves felt wrong.

At first glance, I wondered if the warm green bean salad ($11) would suffer from excessively botanical flavors. But I had sorely underestimated the power of the perfectly poached egg and bacon lardons to infuse the entire mixture with a salty richness that pleasantly overtook the natural bitterness of the beans and balanced well with the sweet, fibrous pear.

Choosing an entree is always an ordeal for me as Indecision, Thy Name Is Joanna. I thought I was playing it safe (and perhaps boring) by choosing the fried chicken with mashed potatoes and spinach salad ($16).

DH fried chicken.JPG
Photo by Joanna O'Leary
Actual portions bigger than they appear!
But the non-standard preparation provided a fresh twist on my old favorite. The buttermilk-brined chicken was laced with thyme and the honey-glazed crust was denser and thicker. Each bite was a wonderful mix of sweet syrup and savory poultry juices. I soon gave up on the fork and ate the leg and breast cave-man style, so as not to miss a smidgen of flesh.

I'm not much of a coffeehouse connoisseur, so I may never be able to verify Down House's offerings in that realm. But as a restaurant and bar, they seem to have come a very long way since somewhat shaky beginnings and I look forward to seeing what's next.



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Location Info

Down House

1801 Yale, Houston, TX

Category: Restaurant


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4 comments
Jim Ayres
Jim Ayres

At my recent visit I had the Normandy Tart and the fried chicken as well.  I thought the cocktail was one of the best I've ever had. Same with the fried chicken - loved it. Our service was great. I've seen other less enthusiastic reactions but for me there's very little not to like about Down House.

Carrie Schadle
Carrie Schadle

good lord, how many reviews of the subpar down house must we endure? i know everyone wants to love it, for whatever reason, but until the staff running the dining room and the kitchen start paying attention to the service and the kitchen, this place will continue to disappoint.

Christina Uticone
Christina Uticone

I  have to agree. I haven't had the bad experiences others have reported. Last time we went (late Oct) my burger was delish, and the beers were great. Our waiter was very friendly and helpful. One of my favorite spots.

Mike
Mike

When was the last time you visited?

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