100 Favorite Dishes: No. 25, Menudo at La Mexicana

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​This year leading up to our annual Best of Houston issue, we're counting down our 100 favorite dishes in Houston. This list comprises our favorite dishes from the last year, dishes that are essential to Houston's cultural landscape and/or dishes that any visitor (or resident) should try at least once.

Late last year, I ran into one of the sadder bowls of menudo I'd ever had at Mucho Mexico. It inspired a conversation on the topic of menudo -- that underappreciated breakfast of champions (and champion hangovers) -- with my dining companion that day, Jay Rascoe. Rascoe is the man behind popular food blog Guns & Tacos as well as one of the men trying to Save Our Food Trucks. He's also a self-professed menudo expert, and one that I trust resolutely.

Rascoe sent me to La Mexicana, his favorite place for the soup, and changed my entire view of the little Mexican joint in Montrose. I'd long been a fan of La Mex's breakfast tacos, but not much else. Until I tried the menudo. Even my Mexican dining companion that morning was blown away by La Mex's deeply flavored soup, rich and complex and as filling as an abuelita's menudo should be.

Since then, La Mex's menudo has become part of my regular dining rotation. I only crave it in the mornings, for breakfast, the remnants of the broth sopped up with La Mex's fresh flour tortillas. I top it with the finely diced white onions that cut through the greasy broth, powdered oregano and chile pequin brightening the soup even further. It's both comforting and eye-opening at once. Chewing contemplatively on the thick pieces of tripe prepares me for a long day ahead -- whether I'm hungover or not. (And, for the record, I hardly ever am.)

The list so far:

No. 100: Dumplings at Heights Asian Cafe
No. 99: Mixta Pizza at Friends Pizzeria
No. 98: Veggie tacos from Radical Eats
No. 97: Bean pie from Conscious Cafe
No. 96: Swiss chard crepes from Giacomo's Cibo e Vino
No. 95: Eggs Mia Bella at Mia Bella
No. 94: Mulligatawny soup at the Queen Vic
No. 93: Helado de Lúcuma from Pollo Bravo
No. 92: Black bean burger from Natachee's
No. 91: Chupacabra pizza from ERA
No. 90: Roast chicken from El Norteño
No. 89: Eggs El Salvador from Brasil
No. 88: Frank the Pretzel from Eatsie Boys
No. 87: Caldo Tlalpeño from Tacos del Julio
No. 86: English pea soup at Brasserie 19
No. 85: Falafel from Zabak's
No. 84: Buttermilk-fried pork loin with fried eggs at Canopy
No. 83: Grillades and grits from BB's Cajun Cafe
No. 82: Haemul dolsot from Seoul House
No. 81: Pandan waffles at Parisian Bakery III
No. 80: Pita bread and hummus at Phoenicia
No. 79: Goat pepper soup at Peppersoup Cafe
No. 78: Melon and Texas feta salad from Beaver's
No. 77: Hot Italian beef from BB's Beef & Hot Dog
No. 76: Bacon-avocado burger from Facundo Cafe
No. 75: Pancakes from Fountain View Cafe
No. 74: Hobnobs from Fluff Bake Bar
No. 73: Chu chee eggplant from Nidda Thai
No. 72: Sausage sampler from King's Biergarten
No. 71: Shawarma from Abdallah's
No. 70: Moules-frite at the Broken Spoke
No. 69: Hong Kong-style French toast at House of Bowls
No. 68: Sashimi sampler at Sushi Miyagi
No. 67: Baleadas from Honduras Mayan
No. 66: Snow ice from Star Snow Ice & Teriyaki
No. 65: Boudin balls from MerCheri's
No. 64: Miso ramen at Umai
No. 63: Grim burger at Lankford Grocery
No. 62: Dabeli at Bansuri Indian Food Corner
No. 61: Wine and cupcakes at 13 Celsius
No. 60: Pâté de France from Spec's
No. 59: Steak and eggs from Ninfa's on Navigation
No. 58: Breakfast pita at Niko Niko's
No. 57: Vegan curry at Cafe TH
No. 56: Samosas at Shiv Sagar
No. 55: Ceviche at Latin Bites Cafe
No. 54: Wicked Philly at Pappa Geno's
No. 53: Pork chop at Perry's Steakhouse
No. 52: Soft-shell crab at Pico's Mex-Mex
No. 51: Sno-balls at MAM's House of Ice
No. 50: Whole catfish at Saigon Pagolac
No. 49: Nova fish box at New York Bagel & Coffee Shop
No. 48: Sojok mana'eesh at Cedars Bakery
No. 47: Pho ga at Pho Ga Dakao
No. 46: Sicilia salad at Trevisio
No. 45: Dahi puri at Sweet 'n' Namkin
No. 44: Hot dogs at Moon Tower Inn
No. 43: Real guacamole at Yelapa Playa Mexicana
No. 42: Akaushi short ribs at Soma Sushi
No. 41: Country-fried chicken livers at Haven
No. 40: Seafood gumbo at Cajun Town Cafe
No. 39: Tacos at Karanchos
No. 38: Crepes at Melange Creperie
No. 37: Gua bao at Yummy Kitchen
No. 36: Guanciale burger at Plonk
No. 35: Snapper al cilantro at Teotihuacan
No. 34: The Houstonian at James Coney Island
No. 33: The Montrose at Amy's Ice Cream
No. 32: Lobster bisque at Philippe
No. 31: Tacos de cabeza y orejas at El Ultimo
No. 30: Oyster stew at Danton's
No. 29: Fried oysters at TQLA
No. 28: Banh mi at Cali Sandwich
No. 27: Captin's fried chicken at Zelko Bistro
No. 26: The Brisket House Special at The Brisket House



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La Mexicana

1018 Fairview, Houston, TX

Category: Restaurant

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Davidross_47
Davidross_47

I really love menudo, as does my wife, who is from China.  However, I have noticed that at several of our favorite Mexical restaurants, it has begun to disappear from the menu.  We were stunned when _menudo_ and _pozole_ were no longer available at La Tapatia Cantina on Richmond & Woodhead.  Any explanation of this regrettable tendency?

Katharine Shilcutt
Katharine Shilcutt

I'm wondering if menudo and pozole just weren't popular options at La Tapatia; in that area, it's mostly frequented by white people, and we don't tend to order either or those dishes, regrettably...

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