A Revival Dog at Revival Market

Revival Dog at Revival Market.JPG
After a handful of trips to Ryan Pera and Morgan Weber's still brand-new Revival Market, I've yet to be completely blown away. Don't get me wrong, I think the place is fantastic on a number of levels. I've picked up wonderful cheeses and bread, fantastically orange-yolked eggs, and an array of amazing house-made pantry products. I'm particularly enamored of their deeply flavored yet strikingly subtle barrel-aged soy sauce. Then, of course, there's Morgan's meat, reason enough for the place's existence, and well worth excitement in its own right.

I'm sure I had unreasonable expectations going in. When I heard that Pera and Weber were expanding the offerings of the shop to include a veritable one-stop for local ingredients, I envisioned just that. I wanted a place I could go, grocery list in hand, and fill my pantry and my fridge according to my whims, rather than the realities of sourcing from local growers and purveyors. I wanted the best of both worlds; convenience and immediacy, married to quality and the warm and fuzzy feeling that comes from buying local. In other words, I wanted the holy grail of farmers' markets.

Well, that's just not reality, and it's not a knock at what Revival Market is all about. But I must admit I've been underwhelmed by the produce selection, in general. What's there has been, in my experience, a bit lacking in terms of variety. As the weather has turned and harvests approach, I have no doubt that will shift somewhat, but the fact remains.

Where Revival wows me is in the quality of the café items. Where they could be an afterthought, value-adders tacked onto a grocery bill, they are fully realized creations in their own right. I've been by a few times in search of nothing more than a sandwich, and happened to pick up a dozen eggs and some Way Back When milk while I'm there.

A personal favorite is the Mangalitsa Hot Dog. First, there's the fact that it is a pure representation of place. That dog could come from no other shop on earth, and that has its own value. Then, there's the fact that it's really, really good.

The dog itself is fantastic. A natural casing offers a wonderful snap, there's just a hint of smoke and a hint of heat, and the meat is ground finely enough to be considered a hot-dog instead of a sausage (at least in my book), but not so finely as to lose the benefit of texture. It's deeply flavored, with a clean barnyard quality that I love about eating animals, and which is so sorely lacking in most commercially available meats. You know you're eating a pig, and that's a good thing.

To put things over the top, the dog is nestled into a Slow Dough pretzel bun. You could put dirt in one of these, and it would probably taste okay. It's just soft enough to make sense as a bun, but firm enough to stand up to the bold flavors and add counterpoint to the yielding meat. Topping it are green tomato relish, sweet and piquant, and cracklin's. I love the cracklin's, but find that they make a bit of an unwieldy mouthful on top of the dog. The easy solution is to simply take them off and eat them out of hand. Consider it a side-dish, and you're good to go. (I'm currently experimenting with methods for sheeting cracklin's, with the ultimate goal of being able to cut them into thin strips, like the tortilla strips adorning a cup of tortilla soup. I'll be sure to let Morgan and Ryan know when I've figured it out.)

Head to Revival Market with no expectations, and you'll be blown away. But even if you expect too much, you can still fall in love with a hot dog, or perhaps pick up some sorgum syrup for the pantry.



Follow Eating Our Words on Facebook and on Twitter @EatingOurWords

Location Info

Revival Market

550 Heights Blvd, Houston, TX

Category: Restaurant


Advertisement

My Voice Nation Help
15 comments
Sunny Bogden
Sunny Bogden

I LOVED the hot dog at Revival Market. The only thing I'd change is I wouldn't a few more cracklings.

ec
ec

Consider using a knife to cut the bread next time. That bread looks like it's been it's been ripped open by a pitbull.

Farley Flavors
Farley Flavors

"I'm currently experimenting with methods for sheeting cracklin's, with the ultimate goal of being able to cut them into thin strips"

Not sure what you mean by "sheeting", but here's what I do.

Carefully cut the skin from a pork belly, trying to keep it in one piece. Use a box-cutter to make incisions a few millimeters apart in the skin. The incisions should be almost but not quite through the skin. Sprinkle with a fair bit of salt.

Place the skin on a cooling rack on top of a baking tray and roast in the oven at 200 for nine hours. Take the skin out, raise the temperature to 400 and return it to the oven for five minutes or so until the skin is puffed up and golden. Slice into thin strips.

(I slow-cook the belly at the same time in a dutch oven with chicken stock, garlic and vegetables).

'stina
'stina

The BLT was very good when I had it a few weeks ago. No scrimping at all on the bacon.

Eric Henao
Eric Henao

I will say, that the other selection of sandwiches are fantastic as well. But do keep in mind, this ain't a store for those who are watching their budget. Premium product = premium price. (That not a negative comment on my part,as much as I'm just making the statement.)

Eric Henao
Eric Henao

You know now...writers on some sites get paid on the website clicks. Website writing and SEO, goes in hand in hand now.

Matthew
Matthew

good to hear the place delivers. also glad that you didn't mention the brainwashed person's favorite food buzzword: organic. local is so much more important than that meaningless term, organic. just glad to see it left in the dust if only this once.

Nicholas L. Hall
Nicholas L. Hall

I believe that's one of the pieces of antique equipment Weber and Perabrought in, to give the place charm.

Nicholas L. Hall
Nicholas L. Hall

Thanks, Farley. I'll give that a try. What I'm trying to do, though, is figure out a way to make a "sheet" of cracklin's. It should not only be cutable into thin strips, but also moldable into other shapes. Tubes, bowls, turned around objects to create a sheath. Think frico, but with cracklin's. I've got a few ideas.

Nicholas L. Hall
Nicholas L. Hall

Despite my initial hesitation to even consider it, the andouille banh mi is delicious. The bread's not right to be called a banh mi, but I don't care.

Nicholas L. Hall
Nicholas L. Hall

Let's all thank Matthew for his support of EoW via click generation.

Farley Flavors
Farley Flavors

Tricky. To get it properly crisp it has to be dry and once it's dry it's not moldable ! Also, won't it shatter when you try to cut it into strips ?

Anyway, I hope you let us know what your ideas are !

Eric Henao
Eric Henao

Yes yes yes! Wonderfully spicy too.

Matthew
Matthew

if it generates website clicks, it can only help, amiright?

Now Trending

From the Vault

 

Loading...