Notes from the Burger Underground: Tasting the Elite 8
Yesterday, our commenters
Illustration by Doug Mac demanded to see expressed a polite interest in seeing our judging teams' tasting notes for the 2011 Burger Bracket. Only one team sent in tasting notes, one of which we ran (for Lucky's Pub), while the other burger judges remained stoically silent about their notes and decision-making processes.
After all, it's not as if we asked the teams to send in their tasting notes. We trust their palates and judgments implicitly.
But both Carnivorous Habits and Team Pola Cheese piped up after yesterday's post on the Elite 8 burgers. Carnivorous Habits had originally sent in a full round of tasting notes and were happy to have them published, while Team Pola Cheese sent in a full batch of their own tasting notes.
You'll find the elaborate, insightful and hunger-provoking notes from both teams below.
Photo by Troy Fields Building a burger at Zelko Bistro.
Team Pola Cheese: Fancy-Pants Bracket
Zelko Bistro / Boss Burger
Patty: Cooked perfectly, we asked for medium rare and that's exactly what we got. Seasoned well, super juicy, tons of flavor. The juice stayed where it is supposed to, in the patty. Not too thick, not too thin, and the beef was ground with respect, just enough to form a great patty. One really can't ask for much more in a burger patty.
Bun: Ruh Roh. After my first bite, a little corner of dry bun pulled away from the rest and fluttered sadly to the plate. Not a good start. The flavor of the bun was ok, size was fine, but it was dry, unforgivably dry. It's advertised as brioche, but it wasn't supple and springy like I expect brioche to be
Toppings: Well Balanced. Nothing took over. Just enough bacon, lovely sauteed onions..maybe the cheese went missing for a bite or two. Honestly, the toppings gave the patty exactly what it needed, companionship.
Overall Impressions: This reminds me a lot of my Grandpa's backyard burgers. That's a good thing, in the sense that Grandpa made a damn fine burger. All the flavors you want from a burger are there, and balanced really well. The ingredients are obviously very high quality, and prepared expertly. I get the feeling that Jaime set out to make a classic, American burger, only with better ingredients. She succeeded, but damn, the dry bun. On a fresh bun, this burger would have been a revelation.
Burger Guys / Sonoma(Closest thing to a Boss Burger)
Patty: Cooked medium, despite my request for med-rare. Juicy, flavorful meat, seasoned well. Very good, but not great. The beef seemed overworked, to the extent that if it had been cooked medium rare, it might not have looked very appealing. (I would like to learn more about the philosophy of grinding beef for a burger patty)
Bun: Big points here. I don't know WHERE this bun is from, but it's springy, sweet, moist. It does that special bounce-back action, when you press down on the burger to get the magic going. This bun did a perfect job of soaking up some flavor and juice as I ate, without ever becoming "soggy".
Toppings: The bacon was a bit of a ham. Three slices on a burger this size were enough to push the other toppings into the background. That said, it did not overshadow the patty, so not a fatal flaw.
Overall Impressions: We all finished, and probably more quickly than we should have. This burger was greater than the sum of its parts, thoroughly enjoyable with no serious shortcomings and plenty of character.
Verdict: In my opinion, meat and bun are the factors by which a burger should first be judged. The patty at Zelko was "great" and the bun was "poor". The patty and bun at Burger Guys were both "very good". This made for a better burger experience. This was a tough call for all of us, because we feel that Zelko's Boss Burger deserves serious attention, and if we had eaten one on the right day, or the right bun, I imagine it's good enough to win this, or any burger competition. But, we can only judge what we ate.
Winner, by heated and difficult decision: The Burger Guys
Photo by Troy Fields The burger at Plonk.
Plonk Bistro/Guanciale Burger
Patty: The server did not ask us how we would like our burger cooked, and we were so busy drooling over the prospect of Guanciale on a burger, that we didn't think to ask. This patty was perfectly seasoned, cooked medium-wellish. There wasn't any pink, but the thing was tender and juicy. A bit on the thick side for my own personal taste, but I'm just nit-picking. This patty had that honest-to-goodness BEEF taste, the taste that reminds you with every bite just how lucky we are to rule the Bovine race.
Bun: A demure and pillowy sweet onion roll bun? Yes please. Fresh, sassy, delicious, great choice for this burger. It served as a beautiful contrast to the madness going on inside. -Drew
Toppings: This is unfair. Guanciale, caramelized onions, and gruyere. UNFAIR.
Overall Impressions: Without considering the decadent toppings, this burger still stands tall. Big, "I mean business" patty, and a great bun. Take the toppings into account, and this is a burger for the ages.
Bernie's Burger Bus/The Substitute[(Sub Texas Cheddar for Bleu) Closest we could get to the Guanciale Burger]
Patty: Cooked medium, quality beef, juicy (held its juice well), but under-seasoned. Tasted alone, This patty was crying out for a bit of salt and pepper.
Bun: The bun was nice. Fluffy with a touch of sweetness. A good bun, but it only took one good squeeze to render it compacted. After the first few bites, the bun became a thin, dense blanket on my patty. No bounce-back action, and I have weak, girlish hands.
Toppings - Bacon, "Tipsy" onions, mushrooms, Texas Cheddar. The toppings were prepared and proportioned well, and all very tasty.
Overall Impressions: This is a good, classic, burger. Made with care, and quality, but not "exciting" by any means. Probable the weakest of the four burgers in this bracket.
Verdict: Judged component by component, and again cumulatively, Plonk ate Bernie's lunch.
Winner/By Knock Out - Plonk Bistro