Deer Sausage and Eggs at Goode Co. Taqueria

Categories: Breakfast

Goode Co Breakfast 007.jpg
Photos by Katharine Shilcutt
Patio weather demands a bloody mary and a Goode Co. breakfast.
The recent news that Goode Co. Taqueria will start serving its breakfast menu seven days a week starting on May 1 got me very excited. Perhaps too excited, as I dragged my boyfriend over there first thing Saturday morning to celebrate the new breakfast schedule with, well, breakfast.

For at least the last 11 years, the half-open air "taqueria" on Kirby has been serving some of the best breakfast food in Houston -- but only on the weekends.

"Oh man, the waffles look so good back there," I sighed as we waited at the register to place our order, peering into the open kitchen and watching a battalion of Hispanic men and women working the line like pistons.

"Show me something that doesn't look good back there," came my boyfriend's amused reply.

Goode Co Breakfast 015.jpg
Huevos con venado.
True to its roots after all these years, Goode Co. Taqueria's breakfast menu is a truly Houstonian amalgamation of South Texas hunters' food -- quail and venison and catfish -- mingled with traditional Tex-Mex favorites like migas and huevos motuleños. And you can get pretty much anything on the menu tucked into a fresh flour tortilla.

Even back in 2000, the Houston Press was talking up the Taqueria for the same things that are good today: the venison sausage and eggs, the Bloody Marys, the sunny patio with a lazily flowing fountain. We grabbed a little of each that Saturday morning, along with a pecan waffle for "breakfast dessert" (I highly approve of this move, by the way; it also works well with pancakes and French toast).

Goode Co Breakfast 013.jpg
Even the hashbrowns have meat here.
The breakfast was every bit as good as it's always been, and that's without nostalgia playing into it. Mesquite-grilled catfish covered with a nip of pico de gallo and folded into a tortilla, hearty and slightly sweet deer sausage scrambled into eggs and fired up with a brash handful of jalapeños, pecans playing off the nutty whole-grain batter of the waffles, all of it eaten in the hot March sunshine and all of it terribly filling, necessitating a long stay at the table afterward for proper digestion. This is a deeply Texan breakfast, through and through.

Back in 2000, we referred to it as a "man's breakfast," but I don't think that's entirely appropriate. True, a man would likely find more to love here than at a frou-frou brunch place specializing in flavored mimosas, but anyone with a Texan tongue would love breakfast at Goode Co. Taqueria. And soon they don't have to wait until the weekend comes around to enjoy it.



Follow Eating Our Words on Facebook and on Twitter @EatingOurWords

Location Info

Goode Co. Taqueria

4902 Kirby Drive, Houston, TX

Category: Restaurant


Sponsor Content

My Voice Nation Help
10 comments
Christina Uticone
Christina Uticone

I'll settle for venison, but if someone knows where to get a reindeer sausage in this town I would love to know!

Kyle
Kyle

I love frou-frou brunch places with flavored mimosas. Dharma Cafe is awesome.

Hugh Ramsey
Hugh Ramsey

Not sure they serve dove, but I'd be happy to be wrong. I'm partial to the pork chops.

Fatty FatBastard
Fatty FatBastard

I had some great reindeer sausage in Whittier last summer.

Katharine Shilcutt
Katharine Shilcutt

Augh! I was thinking of the dove served at Goode Co. BBQ. I shouldn't write when hungry. Thanks for the catch!

Christina Uticone
Christina Uticone

Nice. I love Whittier. Going through the tunnel NEVER gets old!

ragazzotexano
ragazzotexano

It's quail and eggs. Just checked the online menu.

Their breakfast is one of those things you always tried to hit as soon as you could when returning to Houston after a long absence. I know I always did when I was in college.

Christina Uticone
Christina Uticone

Never been to Valdez. Going back to AK 2x this year for weddings but won't get to Valdez then, either, unfortunately. We're going to do a short canoe trip in the Interior somewhere in August and ski in Talkeetna in November. When we go back we like to stay w/ & visit friends. I'd like to go back in a couple of years & do some stuff we haven't done, like Kodiak & Valdez.

I'll tell you one thing I am doing in August - hitting the reindeer sausage Nazi at the Anchorage courthouse! I found out today that Pete's Fine Meats doesn't carry caribou but they do carry moose, so I'm excited about that.

Aaron
Aaron

My brother lives in DC and the GC Taqueria is always on his hit list when he visits home.

Now Trending

From the Vault

 

Loading...