The Gumbo at Gilhooley's

Categories: On the Menu

Gilhooley's Gumbo.jpg
Forget about chili -- I can't think of a more hotly debated dish (in this part of the world, at least) than gumbo. Restaurant gumbo is totally different from homemade gumbo, and homemade gumbo is totally different all along the Gulf Coast stretch of I-10. Some like okra in their gumbo (who are you people, really?), some like tomatoes, and some like a deep, dark and muddy roux (yes, please). Whether it be Creole-style or Cajun-style, there are plenty of variations from which to choose.

Gilhooley's in Dickinson has gotten plenty of press from former Houston Press food critic Robb Walsh, but he focused on the oysters. During my last visit, I branched out from Oysters Gilhooley and tried the Everybody Gumbo.

Gilhooley's is the kind of place where everyone spins around in their chair to see who's walking in when the door creaks open. When I entered, the local populace inside seemed surprised to see me. It was probably the same look I gave that bowl of gumbo from my barstool when it arrived. The Everybody Gumbo really lived up to its name.

In the one bowl there were four or five ultra-plump oysters, a couple of mammoth shrimp, thick-cut chunks of chicken breast and several discs of andouille. There was no okra (thank the sweet, sweet gumbo gods), but the roux was lighter and a little thinner than I would choose. To me, it was more of a stew. But even though it wasn't my preferred style of gumbo, it was a tasty, piping-hot dish.

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Location Info

Gilhooley's Raw Bar

222 Ninth St., Dickinson, TX

Category: Restaurant


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14 comments
Kevin Shalin
Kevin Shalin

That oyster sitting on the top looks so freaking good!

H_e_x
H_e_x

I thought all gumbo had okra in it. All styles and locations and everything. We are in the South, gotta love okra.

onions
onions

But you love celery?

Am_Bro_Se
Am_Bro_Se

For restaurant gumbos, give me Schooner's (in Port Arthur, Texas) or give me death.

Festus
Festus

Did they have any free bubble-up to go with that rainbow stew?

SirRon
SirRon

I'm no purist. I like beans in my chili. However, you have to acknowledge the okra and gumbo thing. The name gumbo came from a word meaning okra.

I have enjoyed countless bowls of "gumbo" without okra, but isn't that kind of like enjoying chili without, uh, chilies?

Scott
Scott

Were there tomatoes in it, cause it looks awful red to me.

Matthew
Matthew

okra is great. that is all.

LennieAmbrose
LennieAmbrose

Not all places put okra in gumbo, for sure. I do love okra, just not in gumbo.

LennieAmbrose
LennieAmbrose

Just because gumbo means okra doesn't mean it tastes good with it. I like gumbo, I like okra, I don't like gumbo and okra together. Blech.

Jennifer King
Jennifer King

As gumbo is such a personal dish, I think the answer varies. I know in my Cajun family, okra is for poultry, game and sausage gumbo whereas seafood gumbo is always made with file' but never with okra.

Am_Bro_Se
Am_Bro_Se

I think that's a SETX (Port Arthur area) thing. Never had any gumbo growing up with okra in it there. It's New Orleans style that I've seen with it. Tomatoes too - blasphemy if you ask me. That's why I avoid gumbo when visiting NOLA and stick to the roast beef and shrimp poboys instead.

H_e_x
H_e_x

Fair enough, but I think the norm is to put okra in it.

SirRon
SirRon

I didn't say gumbo tastes good with okra. I just said gumbo literally means okra. That part isn't really debatable.

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