Breakfast at Brasil: Eggs El Salvador

Categories: Breakfast

Eggs el Salvador at Brasil (2).JPG
I know that this will not sit well with many Montrose-dwelling diners, but I don't really like Brasil, at least not for the food. Sure, it's a great place to go hang out over a cup of coffee or a beer, relaxing on the patio and watching the Montrosian wildlife walk by, caught in their timeless mating dance of skinny jeans and fixies, while Harry Sheppard sets the vibe (pun intended) inside. The food, though? The food, I've always found a bit lackluster.

It's been frustrating, too, because much of the menu has always sounded interesting and tasty. Then I place an order and am presented with the blandest possible interpretation of whatever piqued my interest in the first place. There are exceptions to the rule (Alsace pizza, laced with prosciutto and red onion, comes to mind), but for the most part, that's been my experience.

I have no doubt that many of you will chime in, addressing my ignorance regarding some menu gem or other, and I look forward to it. That, however, is not why we're here. We're here because of breakfast.

I discovered recently, and quite to my surprise, that Brasil serves some of the best breakfast dishes in Houston. Whereas the lunch and dinner menu is full of interesting-sounding dishes that don't deliver, the breakfast menu lives up to its hype. The Red Velvet Hash is good enough to inspire recreation; the earthy blend of quinoa , egg whites and wild mushrooms tastes more like a sinful indulgence than dietary penance; the scones, both savory and sweet, are perfect pickings for an extra leisurely breakfast spent nibbling on a crumbly pastry, sipping a cup of coffee, and reading a book on the patio. My favorite of all, though, is the amazing and unexpected Eggs El Salvador.

Starting with a base of arepas, the dish then builds upward with perfectly poached eggs (egg cookery is something Brasil has down pat), a glistening avalanche of chorizo in salsa rojo (I told you, I can't resist chorizo), a splash of contrasting, tart salsa verde, and a sprinkling of queso fresco. A tart and crunchy cabbage and carrot slaw, perked up by lime, sides the dish, along with a ramekin of properly cooked but superfluous black beans.

The dish is a study in contrasts. A perfect bite will encompass the savory and slightly sweet chew of the arepa, the oozy and decadent richness of egg, piquant and meaty chorizo, sharp salsa, and the pungency of salty-fresh Mexican cheese. If you really do it right, you'll also include a bit of slaw, for a wonderful crunch that sets off the supple texture of the main attraction perfectly. It has quickly become standard in my restaurant-breakfast rotation.

What about you? Are there any restaurants out there you generally dislike, but count on for scratching that breakfast itch?


Location Info

Brasil

2604 Dunlavy, Houston, TX

Category: Restaurant


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32 comments
Fatty FatBastard
Fatty FatBastard

All of you are idiots.

Brunch used to be incredible at La Strada, but ONLY before they burned down. The latter was doomed for failure because they tried to add a club to it. Folks on Sundays might want to do a brunch and then a club, but the combo was a miserable failure.

For brunch these days begin at Baba Yega's. Preferably in their garden. On a sunny Sunday morning it is perfection. And if you scoff at the $20 all you can eat tab, it's half price on Saturday.

WinlowGuy
WinlowGuy

Like Nicholas, I never thought of Brasil as a place to eat.. until recently, when I was running out of ideas of where to go one late night some months back. I like the duck salad and some of the pizzas they have. The quiches are quite good, too, such as the sausage and peppers when they have them. A friend swears by the curried tuna sandwich, of which I had 1 bite and liked it... I'll have to try more of the breakfast items as I've been defaulting to Baby Barnaby's (Green eggs or Bob's Healthy Plate), Shade/Canopy (eggs benedict and pastry basket), dim sum in Chinatown, or home-made brunch on lazy Sundays. Thanks for the recommendation,

chorizochica
chorizochica

mmmmm chorizo..... it's kind of hard to focus on anything in particular now that you've mentioned chorizo. but my favorite breakfast food right now is a crepe that actually has a morrocan style of chorizo, if you will, filling, and it is found at coco's on gray. i don't really care for any of their other crepes, but this one has me coming back just for this. morrocan sausage or chorizo is the best think i've discovered this year... well at least 20 days into it. it's pure beefy goodness, with lots of spices and garlic. yum! they serve it in a crepe, but it would be magnifico just on it's own in my mind. there is also a palistinian version of pure beefy, garlicky, and spiced sausage that they wrap up in flatbread, like a kolache but thinner bread, and eat for breakfast. basically anything with chorizo-like sausage in it is going to win me over, for breakfast and any time of the day.

Casey
Casey

The eggs benedict is fantastic here. It's far from traditional but everything works great together. I've never been that happy with any of the non breakfast items at Brazil but it's a great brunch spot.

Nicholas L. Hall
Nicholas L. Hall

I love that the comments section is quickly devolving into a discussion of the relative merits of genitally-restrictive trousers.

Phil
Phil

Skinny jeans and fixies are not timeless, they are a fad.

Carlos
Carlos

sounds like it should be called eggs South America cause nothing in the dish sounds Salvadoreño except for maybe the curtido-like slaw. still sounds yummy though!

tqro
tqro

Nicholas, you described exactly how I feel about that place. Sorta-kinda had an addiction with their scones and crescents. The texture of those two are exactly as they should be and I haven't found a better texture any other place in this city.

ragazzotexano
ragazzotexano

Breakfast at Brasil is the only meal that can stand on its own here - especially, considering the service can be almost comically inept. (I once waited for an hour for bagel and lox. Seriously. Fortunately, it's the kind of place you usually aren't in any rush to get out of.) I love the scones, and I sometimes wonder why more people don't do a solid quiche like they do. Freshly squeezed OJ. Homemade granola. Even the oatmeal is satisfying. It’s the kind of basic, satisfying breakfast you want in front of you when you feel like tackling the Sunday Times. (Though Dan might frown on you/toss your sorry ass on the sidewalk for occupying one of his precious tables for that long.) While I also find the lunch and dinner menu to be all flash and no follow through, I have been known to order up a bland Caesar salad and camp out on one of the said precious tables for an hour or two because of the nice side of eye candy that comes with the meal.

Dream
Dream

i like the spot, food or no food.

dream

Katharine Shilcutt
Katharine Shilcutt

I'm addicted to the red velvet hash here, as well as the breakfast skillet (I don't think that's what it's called, but that's what it is: potatoes and chorizo in a skillet, served with black beans and poached eggs on top - killer!).

trisch
trisch

I'm with you -- never been impressed by the food at Brasil, although the duck salad is pretty good. But wow, the Eggs El Salvador sound so good I might have to bother waking up early one of these days to go give them a try!

Kyle
Kyle

Jicama chicken salad sandwich is good too.

Nicholas L. Hall
Nicholas L. Hall

Fatty, I agree that Baba Yega is hard to beat for brunch atmosphere. Sitting in the garden, sipping a mimosa or bellini, it's hard to beat. The food, however, has never really impressed me. Of course, if it's a tail-of-the-dog kind of brunch, that's not necessarily a deal breaker. And it usually is, isn't it?

Nicholas L. Hall
Nicholas L. Hall

Sounds fantastic. I just might have to go give that a try. Thanks for the tip!

Kyle
Kyle

Well, when you season your food piece with snarky culture sniping, you kind of invite it.

I did recommend a Brasil dish earlier, however.

Kyle
Kyle

Fixies maybe, but skinny jeans have legitimate pragmatic benefits for cyclists.

Nicholas L. Hall
Nicholas L. Hall

I, too, adore that hash. I haven't had the "skillet," I don't think, but you said the magic "c" word. I'll have to check it out.

Nicholas L. Hall
Nicholas L. Hall

That's funny. The duck salad is one of the few things I like on the dinner menu, but only when the berries are perfectly ripe.

Nicholas L. Hall
Nicholas L. Hall

That's what happens when you get into Willy Wonka's Fizzy Lifting Drink, Willis.

Danielle
Danielle

ok, that talk about chorizo and flavorful sausage caused a reaction - i made a beeline straight from work to grab something to satisfy the sausage craving. so my palestinian friend recommended cafe byblos, and since i hadn't tried it before, there i went.... and i'm so happy i did!!! now you must go there and see what i mean, and order the "Sujok"!it's armenian sausage, and just simply amazing. go there or anywhere that serves this stuff, it's off the hook... seriously. if i'm typing this right now, then i'm serious. really! :-p

Nicholas L. Hall
Nicholas L. Hall

Yeah, that wasn't sarcasm. I find it greatly amusing that the little stab athipsters is getting this much attention. Definitely invited. For what it'sworth, I actually ride a fixed gear bike, and can thoroughly appreciate theargument.

H_e_x
H_e_x

Such as showing the world your diminished ass or puny meat & two veg.

Nicholas L. Hall
Nicholas L. Hall

I'm really enjoying all these chorizo-alternative recommendations.They all sound so damn delicious. Thanks, guys!

Danielle
Danielle

(aka chorizochica)oh i almost forgot the most important piece: you can order the Sujok baked with Eggs for a breakfast or brunch dish!!!! i didn't have it yet, but my palestinian friend said this is what they use for their breakfast egg scrambles... i must invite myself over to her house for breakfast! but in the meantime, cafe byblos works :-)

Kyle
Kyle

Apologies then, I find you to be both a gentleman and a scholar. And you're one of the best writers on EOW.

Kyle
Kyle

And not getting your pants leg caught in your drivetrain without having to wear spandex silliness that doesn't have pockets.

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