Robb Walsh's 100 Favorite Houston Dishes: #19 Barbacoa Tacos at Gerardo's

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Over the course of the next few months, I'm counting down 100 of my favorite Houston dishes. I chose some because they are such quintessential Houston creations, others for their cultural or historical significance, and others because they are just so damn tasty. Share your own nominations in the comments.

#19 Barbacoa Tacos at Gerardo's

"Gerardo's, Barbacoa, Vi, Sa, Do" reads the sign out front. Which means that barbacoa is available on Friday (viernes), Saturday (sábado) and Sunday (domingo) only. Ten years ago, that was standard policy all over town. But these days, you see barbacoa offered 24/7 at taco trucks and gas station taquerías all over the city.

So how does Gerardo's still manage to draw such a crowd for its weekend specials? Because Gerardo's still serves the real deal. On Friday afternoons, you can watch a truck full of cow heads being unloaded out back. And inside Gerardo's kitchen, there are three giant, steel, steam-jacketed kettles. The huge pots have a chile broth in the bottom and the steam from that spicy broth is used to cook the cow heads. The slow cooking turns collagen into gelatin while the spicy steam imparts a delicious flavor.

When I asked the guy who runs one of biggest barbacoa suppliers in the state how they cooked all those heads, he laughed. "Nobody cooks heads anymore," he told me. "We buy beef cheeks and cook them like stew." The barbacoa tastes better at Gerardo's because everybody else is taking shortcuts.

The list to date:

#100: Green Chile Chicken Kebabs at Chatkhara Grill
#99: The All-Day Burrito at Cherry Top Bakery
#98: "You Buy We Fry" Trout Basket at Hank's Fish Market
#97: Chicharron de Barriga at La Michoacana Meat Market # 10
#96: Pakistani Breakfast at Kings Chicken
#95: Fried Mojarra at Taqueria Jesus Maria
#94: Chocolate-Peanut Butter Cake Ball at Coffee Groundz
#93:Cheeseburger at Leonard's Famous Burgers
#92: Lasagna at Doyle's
#91: Cochinita Pibil at Tacos La Bala
#90: Fajita Tacos at Taqueria El Charro
#89: Kubideh and Zereshk Polo at Kasra Persian Grill
#88: Trentino Gelato's Dulce de Leche at Shisha
#87: Deviled Eggs at Nielsen's Deli
#86: Italian-Cuban Sandwich at Logan Farms
#85: Vegetable Trio in Sichuan Sauce at Spicy Sichuan
#84: Salchi-Burger at Brisa Cocina
#83: El Ultimo Taco Truck's Breakfast Tacos
#82: Kielbasa on a Sizzling Comal at Polonia
#81: Shrimp and Grits at Bistro Alex, Hotel Sorella
#80: A Bowl of Chili at James Coney Island
#79: Lamb Dumplings at Lucky Pot
#78: Crazy Irishman Sushi Roll at Soma
#77:Tesar's "Magic" Burger
#76: Mac n' Cheese at Two Saints
#75: Spicy Armenian Kebabs at Café Rita
#74: Jalapeño Gefilte Fish at Rustika
#73: Greek Burger at the Hubcap Grill
#72: The Basil Inferno at Thai Bistro
#71: Paella at Rioja on Kirkwood
#70: The Big Adrian Burger at Adrian's Local Café
#69: Dulce de Leche Ice Cream Bar at La Paletera
#68: Indonesian Deviled Eggs at Rice Bowl II
#67: Al Pastor Quesadillas at Tierra Caliente Meat Market
#66: Boudin Kolaches at Shipley's on North Main
#65: Banh Cuon at Tay Ho 18 in Hong Kong City Mall
#64: Cumin Lamb at Chinese Halal Cuisine on Bellaire
#63: Stuffed Artichoke at Mint Café on Sage
#62: Italian Sausage Pie at Russo's Coal Oven Pizza
#61: Tom Kha Gai at Thai Choice on Wilcrest
#60: Torta Cubano Estilo Mexicano at El Amigo Taco Truck
#59: Whataburger Triple Meat, Triple Cheese with Bacon and Jalapeños
#58: The Banana, Ghiradelli Chocolate Chip and Dulce de Leche Empanada at The Original Marini's
#57: The Barbecue Brisket and Egg Breakfast Taco at Plantation BBQ Trailer
#56: Chicken-Fried Steak at Frank's Chop House
#55: Catfish and Grits at the Breakfast Klub
#54: Bun Bo Hue at Kim Chau
#53: Beef Tips at Davis Meat Market
#52: Moules Frites at Jeanine's Bistro
#51: The Fajita Taco at the Taconazo Truck
#50: Frito Pie at the Rio Verde Taco Truck
#49: Ceviche at Yelapa
#48: African-American Beef Links at Bar-B-Que Done Right
#47: Pasta with Fresh Peas, Ham and Mushrooms at Ciao Bello
#46: Ice Cream at Hank's
#45: Oysters with Lardons and Leeks at Brocante
#44: Steak Tikka at Himalaya
#43: Barbacoa Soup at De Buey Y Vaca
#42: Banh Mi Xiu Mai at Don Cafe
#41: The BBQ Burger at Guy's Meat Market
#40: Indian Borsch at Indika
#39: Mole Poblano at Hugo's
#38: Banh Bot Chien at Tan Tan
#37: Soft-boiled Quail Eggs with Asparagus Tips at Chez Roux
#36: Surf and Turf Salad at Que Huong
#35: Breakfast Tacos at Laredo Taqueria
#34: French Fries at Little Big's
#33: The Picnic Platter at the Grove
#32: Cheese Enchiladas with Fried Eggs at Los Dos Amigos
#31: The Sampler Plate at Café Lili
#30: Elysian Fields Lamb and Mushy Peas at Tony's
#29: The Cheeseburger at Christian's
#28 Couchon de Lait at Stella Sola
#27: Warm Glazed Donuts at Shipley's on Ella
#26: Fried Shrimp at Segari's
#25: Special Enchiladas-A-La-Taylor at Spanish Village
#24: Pasta with White Truffles at Da Marco
#23: Green Falafel Sandwich at Zabak's
#22: The Roast Beef Poor Boy at Mama's Cajun Cuisine
#21: Goat Buttermilk and Pecan Pie with San Leon Rum Ice Cream at Haven
#20: The Pork Chop at Perry's on Scarsdale

Location Info

Gerardo's Drive-In Grocery

609 Patton St., Houston, TX

Category: Restaurant


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