Food Fight: Battle Breakfast Taco
Photos by Katharine Shilcutt Chorizo and egg taco from Brother's Taco House
Breakfast tacos are just one of the many benefits to living in Houston (in case you forgot that there were any). Although they are ubiquitous here, you'll quickly find as you move east or north that you'll be virtually unable to satisfy any cravings you have for flour tortillas filled with eggs and meat, unless you take matters into your own hands.
As a result of its omnipresence, every Houstonian has a favorite breakfast taco place. This week -- to shake things up a bit -- we asked our followers on Twitter to recommend their favorite taco places for us to try. We had lots of votes for Whataburger (hey, Texans love their Whataburger), along with a few more suggestions, which we've pitted in battle for your dining pleasure.
The marketing geniuses at Whataburger recently had the brilliant idea to offer their entire menu 24 hours a day. That means that no matter what time of day or night you've decided to get drunk, Whataburger's utterly milquetoast potato, egg and cheese "taquitos" will be waiting patiently for you. Whether you want to soak up all the whiskey in your stomach or simply to plow something into your mouth -- it doesn't matter what -- because anything sounds good when you're drunk, these relatively flavorless tacos will do the trick, being the food equivalent of milk of magnesia.
Other uses include bringing them in to your coworkers on a Monday morning, fully knowing that their day is already so bad that any type of free food will cheer them up, and then seizing the moment when they're in a breakfast taco haze to convince them to cover your presentation for you later that day.
Chiloso's Taco House
This tucked-away restaurant at 701 E. 20th Street in the Heights is as neighborhoody as they come, with nearly an entire store's worth of Kirkland's merchandise hanging from the walls, colorful signs entreating you to "LAUGH LIKE YOU MEAN IT" and "FOCUS ON FAITH." Mercifully, there's a relatively calmer patio. The ladies working the tacos mean business, but always have a smile on their faces.
Despite their pleasant demeanor and the ridiculously good tortillas (they should sell these by the pallet, with butter), the fillings were only average. An ominous three pepper mark next to the Chappell Hill taco translated to an absolute lack of heat, and the chorizo was equally bland. Fortunately, the silken yet spicy green sauce included in our bag of tacos perked them up quite a bit.
Brother's Taco House
The taco stand at 1604 Dowling, just outside of downtown and across the street from Sparkle Burger, is an excellent cross-section of humanity on weekday mornings. But who cares about humanity when the best breakfast tacos in town are waiting inside?
This is how a breakfast taco should taste: dense yet fluffy tortillas gently coddling a pastiche of eggs and perfectly spiced chorizo. You don't even need salsa for this taco. Take a walk on the wilder side, though, and get a taco filled with pillowy chicharrones in a piquant red sauce (similar yet totally different from the green sauce-coated chicharrones at Guadalajara on Washington Avenue) to really perk up your morning, no coffee necessary. Your stomach and senses will thank you.
As if there were a question: Brother's Tacos, hands down. Get thee to Dowling Street tomorrow morning and find out for yourself.