Shade Tree Barbecue with Dewayne Pines
Dewayne puts out a well-worn card table and four plastic chairs under the shade of a tree where his customers can sit and eat. I got a two-meat plate with brisket and ribs for ten bucks. It came with beans, potato salad, two slices of white bread, pickles and onions and a Fanta strawberry soda.
Dewayne makes the mashed potato-style salad with lots of French’s mustard. He says his wife made the potato salad last week and it was too soupy, so he fired her and did it himself. It was still too soupy if you ask me, and the beans tasted like they came from a can.
I love Texas shade tree barbecue--I think of it as culinary folk art. Sometimes the barbecue is terrible. But when it’s good, it can be very, very good. And on this particular Saturday afternoon in late June, Dewayne Pine’s brisket and ribs were sensational. – Robb Walsh