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New York food writer Francis Lam, aka the Chopstick Senator, was in town again recently. Turns out he had never had a proper chicken-fried steak before. (He thought they were made out of hamburger.) So I took him to Kelley's Country Cookin' for a grand slam breakfast.

Francis was a little wary at first. His momma told him "never eat anything bigger than your head." I kept raving about what a damn fine CFS it was, so he had to try it. Then he had seconds and then he had thirds. -- Robb Walsh