The Houston Press Food Blog

October 2006 Archives

Late Desayuno, Anyone?

Fri Oct 06, 2006 at 10:55:51 AM
Photos by Robb Walsh
El Ultimo at Long Point and Antoine: One of the few tacos trucks that specializes in breakfast.

El Ultimo Breakfast Taco

El Ultimo Taco is the name of a shiny new taco truck parked in front of a carwash at the Southwest corner of Long Point and Antoine. I pulled over one morning because I saw the word "desayuno" painted on the side of the truck. The sanitary standards here are exceptional. Both the man and woman behind the counter were wearing hair nets!

You hardly ever see breakfast tacos in Mexico. Bacon and eggs on a flour tortilla is a Tex-Mex invention. And, in fact, El Ultimo Taco is the only taco truck I've seen in Houston with a wide selection of breakfast tacos. (Please tell me if you know of others!)

Pretty amazing for a buck apiece.

You can get scrambled eggs mixed with bacon, ham, potatoes, nopalitos, machacado (shredded beef), chorizo, or roasted peppers on a corn or flour tortilla for a dollar a piece. And the tacos are huge. There's no coffee, but there fresh fruit agua frescas available.

I sampled three egg tacos, one with machacado, one with nopalitos and one with chorizo. The flour tortillas were hand made and all three tacos were generously stuffed. They all tasted great, but the chorizo was truly exceptional. And the thick green salsa served on the side was super hot.

Highly recommended for your proximo desayuno! -- Robb Walsh

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The Jason Blair of Tacos?

Thu Oct 05, 2006 at 02:20:07 PM
Robb Walsh
Fictionalized tacos?

I recently received this e-mail from a reader. The allegations he makes are truly unsettling:

Robb -

When you got the cold, greasy taco from the truck at a gas station on Bissonnet a few years ago, did you take a bite and throw it away, as originally reported, or did you throw the greasy paper bag away unopened, as recently reported?

Given the outbreak of fictionalization by NY Times and Washington Post reporters, I have become very cautious in what I accept in print. (By the way, do you think all those adult ads are completely true?)

Jayson Blair couldn't make up anything as good as your taco truck reports . Just think what you could do if you created an idealized composite of all the taco trucks you have ever visited.

Evan Harrel, Houston


Correction:

When I got those nasty tacos several years ago, I did indeed take one bite before throwing the bag away. I did not throw the bag away unopened, as I recently reported.

I apologize to taco lovers everywhere for this egregious error. I wasn't fictionalizing -- it was either a lapse of memory, or else I was trying to put the taste out of my mind.

Anytime in the future that I claim to have thrown food away without even tasting it, you should be suspicious. -- Robb Walsh

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