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Photos by Robb Walsh

That's all, folks!

Taco trucks are decorated with paintings of characters, landscapes and food still-lifes. This emerging genre of pan-American folk art depicts the people, places and things of Latin America in a jumble of the real and the imagined.

The anthropomorphized spokespig, who we will call Paco, holds a taco aloft on the side of the Paco's Tacos #3 truck currently parked at 7100 Hillcroft. Although he lacks a red bowtie, his blue jacket is an obvious allusion to the most famous of porcine cartoon characters, Porky Pig. Paco resembles some of Porky's earlier incarnations.

Just what kind of taco is he's holding? Does Paco have a cannibalistic streak?

Breast meat?

This is a painting of a woman who we have given the affectionate nickname "Mona Lisa de Pollo." Note the enigmatic half smile, the small head and the enormous ta-tas. (Reflecting the painter's own hungers?) She enticingly balances a whole roasted chicken in the air on the side of the El Mapache III truck at the corner of Gulfton and Renwick.

And what places are the painters of the following two landscapes longing for?

Home, sweet home.

We can feel the homesick longing of the artist in this affectionate rendering of La Silla (the saddle), a rock formation on top of a mountain in Monterrey, Mexico. La Silla is an icon of this Northern Mexican city. The artist has painted cute little white homes along the mountain's slope to welcome the viewer with their symbolically open doors.

Note that the yellow reflector on the side of the bus has been incorporated into the image -- is it a cosmic "you are here" indicator?

Beep beep.

Meanwhile, this fantasy of the American-Mexican border from El Mapache III features a saguaro cactus straight out of a Peanuts cartoon and a comic reminder of death in the form of the bleached white skull. We expect the Coyote to chase the Road Runner through this scene at any second. In fact, when we stare into the painting for any length of time, we find ourselves mouthing the words, "beep beep." -- Robb Walsh

Photos by Robb Walsh

El Mapache III is the name of the shiny new taco truck at the corner of Renwick and Gulfton in the parking lot of the Bestop gas station and convenience store. El Mapache means "the raccoon." It's also a nickname for a bandit, an allusion to the animal's black mask. (I wonder what happened to El Mapache I and II? )

This truck does some serious business. When I stopped by early in the morning, they were cooking up a mountain of meat. And no wonder they are so popular--the Bestop convenience store attractively decorates their parking lot with potted palms, giving the El Mapache III dining area a festive ambiance.

The two guys eating at the stand-up counter recommended the fajita tacos. So I tried one of those along with a taco al carbon and a barbacoa taco--all with onions and cilantro. The pork in the pastor tacos was orange-colored, but the seasoning was bland. The fajita tacos were okay, if a little skimpy on the meat. The barbacoa taco was by far the best --a huge mound of hot cheek meat nicely shredded and very moist. I was offered my choice of flour or corn tortillas, which is pretty unusual. I went for corn. The salsa was a thick and creamy green concoction and it packed a major kick. The truck also sells roast chickens and the beans are free on the weekend.

The proprietors angrily refused to let me take their photos. In fact, they were pretty upset about me taking snapshots of my tacos. They demanded to know who I was. And as they seemed to be getting ready to kick my ass, I gave them my business card. I prefer to stay anonymous, but I also like to stay out of the hospital. They studied the card, but evidently they'd never heard of the Houston Press, and my name didn't ring a bell either. I think they were relieved when they figured out I wasn't working for the Health Department. -- Robb Walsh

Photos by Robb Walsh

Ever since I pulled over for a cold coconut on Harrisburg last month, I have been seeing Cocos Frios signs all over the city. I guess the cold coconut thing wasn't quite as big a novelty as I thought it was.

There was a big crowd hanging around at a coconut vendor's stall at Bellaire and Mullins (6000 Bellaire Blvd.) when I drove by on Sunday. So I pulled over, paid my $3 and got a cold frosty one. After I sucked all the coconut water out with a straw, I was going to chuck my nut and take off. But the crowd stopped me. Several people held up their coconuts to show me that I was missing out on half of the fun.

After you drink the coconut milk, you are supposed to hand your coconut back to the vendor and have it hacked in half with a machete. The coconut seller then hands it back with a spoon and napkin so you can eat the soft coconut meat inside. The lady asked me if I wanted chile and lime sprinkled on my coconut meat. How do you say "no" to an offer like that? — Robb Walsh

Is this what you're looking for?

Robb Walsh's latest review really whetted the appetite of one reader, who wrote in asking for more information:

I recently read your Houston Press review of the new Doneraki. I really appreciated your comments on the poor state of the tacos al pastor at Doneraki and regret that this has also been the case at most other restaurants I've visited. I fell in love with tacos al pastor during a trip to Mexico City in the mid 90's and have yet to find a place that comes close those great side-street eateries. I was wondering if it would be possible to get the name and address of the taqueria your waiter mentioned. Thanks and keep up the great work!

Noe Perez

Not to leave you hanging — well, actually, that's exactly what we're doing — but we suggest you pick up a copy of the Houston Press this Thursday to find the cure for your cravings. — Keith Plocek

Photos by Robb Walsh

For some reason, roast chicken dinners often come from "taco school buses" rather than taco trucks. I like Pollos Asados La Silla, a school bus parked at the intersection of Lawndale and Highway 225. It's bright yellow with a giant chicken character and the saddle-shaped mountain peak called "la silla" (the saddle) painted on the side. "La silla" is a landmark of Monterrey, Mexico.

For six bucks, these guys give you a half of of a tasty charcoal-grilled pollo, a bowl of frijoles, salsa and a stack of tortillas. A whole chicken is ten bucks. -- Robb Walsh

Robb Walsh

Maria and the gang at Tacos Tierra Caliente on Montrose

Tierra Caliente (it means "the hotlands") is a part of Michoacan that's famous for high temperatures, a unique musical style and great marijuana.

In Houston, the hotlands are also getting famous for tacos, thanks to Maria Samano and her flirtatious crew at Tacos Tierra Caliente. Her extremely popular taco trailer is parked in the 1300 block of Montrose Boulevard in the "We Fix Flats" parking lot. (Look for the 99� taco sign.) I tried two barbacoa tacos ($1.50 each) with onions and cilantro on top and they were outstanding. Ask Maria for the "salsita" and she'll hand you a squirt bottle full of her creamy green "hotlands hot sauce." Yow! -- Robb Walsh